ON THE 

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GOOSEBERRIES, BLACKBERRIES, ETC. 



FRICE, 



Ho-w^ to liaise aii<l IVIarliet Tliem. 



P,Y E P. ROE. 



GO CENTS. 



Author of "Play and Profit in my Garden," "Barriers Burned Away," "Opening a Chestnut Burr," 

" From Jest to Earnest," Etc. 






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N E \V B U U G II , N . Y. : 
JOURNAL PRINTING ESTABLISH MliNT, 

187G. 






AN OPEN LETTEE,. 



TO THE READER 



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'AVING received so many and varied questions concerning 
the culture of small fruits, especially strawberries, and 
finding it quite impossible to answer them separately, 
by letter, I have been led to reply by the following 
brief manual. 

At the same time I shall aim to do more. This is a busy 
age, and neither time nor money is abundant. There are multi- 
tudes who would gladly see upon their tables the delicious ber- 
ries in their season, and if they knew how easily and readily they 
could be raised, would certainly cultivate them. But having 
made some crude experiments with but poor, or partial success, 
they come to think that some mystery is involved and that 
before they can grow small fruits themselves there must be con- 
siderable outlay, reading or practical instruction. But nature 
is not so chary of her best gifts and, like the sunshine, she places 
strawberries within the reach of all who own or hire a few square 
feet of land. 

While the rich amateur with his trained gardener, and the 
practical and scientific fruit-grower by his skill can secure 
remarkable results, I shall try to show the hurried professional 
and business man, the driving farmer, the lady rurally inclined, 
that they, by a little knowledge and labor, can readily supply 



the home market with the most wholesome of summer food. I 
use the word food advisedly — food that can sustain hard work, 
for during their season I almost live upon berries, and 1 have 
but few idle moments. I shall endeavor to give some instruction 
concerning the culture of small fruits so simply and clearly tliat 
one who has never seen them, can go to work intelligently — 
and so concisely that an hour's reading or less will prepare for 
this work. But let no one think that he can master the science 
of small-fruit culture in half an hour or half a life-time. I have 
been studying the subject for years with enthusiasm, and feel 
that I am yet but on the threshold of its knowledge. Charles 
Downing and A. S. Fuller would be the last men in America to say 
that they knew it all, and yet few know as much about every 
phase of horticulture. I have reference to the practical knowl- 
edge needful to secure a simple and definite end. We would all 
be in a woful plight if we had to teach our cooks the whole 
science of chemistry before they could give us a batch of sweet, 
light bread. 

For the ordinary purposes of the garden and market there is 
no mystery involved. Ill-success usually arises from the lack of 
a little practical knowledge and from neglect — or from leaving 
the care of the plants to the " hired man " who may have an 
antipathy to everything save cabbages and potatoes. 

But a fraction of the money that supplies a household from 
the market with fruit that is often but half ripe or half decayed, 
would stock the garden with tlie choicest varieties. 

Besides, the most delicate and luscious kinds are the most 
easily grown usually. But they are not often found in market 
because too soft for transportation. They may be picked from 
our own gardens daily with the dew upon them. 

The Editor of the American Agriculturist writes with a 



5 

great deal of force — '' The unfortunate people who buy their fruit 
do not know what a strawberry is." 

To teach as many as possible who own a little land what a 
" Charles Downing," a " Triomphe de Gand," or some other lus- 
cious strawberry is, directly from their own vines, is one of the 
objects of this manual. 

At the same time I have some hope that the following pages 
may contain suggestions of value to those who, like myself, are 
engaged in raising small fruits upon a large scale. I have care- 
fully consulted the best authorities. I have closely questioned 
successful and practical growers, and have had some experi- 
ence myself, reaching through a number of years and a fair 
degree of success, as the following testimonials may prove : 

Strawberkies— What Downinc4 Says.— There is probably no higher 
authority upon fruit than Charles Downing, Esq., and having seen the 
nine varieties exhibited by Rev. E. P. Roe, at D. Smith's bookstore, said 
that he had never seen as fine a collection, take them altogether, though 
he had seen as fine specimens of single varieties. They are the Monarch 
of the West, Champion, Triomphe de Grand, Jucunda, Seth Boyden, 
President Wilder, Late Prolific, Charles Downing, and Leuig's White.— 
Newhurgli Daily Jom-nal. 

We have seen and tasted some of the finest strawberries from the pro- 
Hfic gardens of Rev. E. P. Roe, Cornwall : in size enormous, in quality 
admirable, and in abundance of yield extraordinary. The culture of this 
fruit is so easy and the result so great, we wonder that every family in the 
country does not have its strawberry bed. [The fruit was shown to Dr. 
S. I. Prime.] — New York Observer. 

Delicious Strawberries. — The Rev. E. P. Roe, well known as the 
author of several popular works, called our attention to some strawberries 
of his own raising which surpass, in the combined qualities of size and 
sweetness, any it has been our good fortune to test. The '* Monarch of 
the West " was the name of the variety. The vines are very prolific of 
fruit, the berries hanging in thick clusters of every shade of maturity, and 
promising to last till late in the season. Even those which were not quite 
rijic Avere sweeter and higher flavored than we have been accustomed to 
find the ripe specimens of otlier varieties which attain the same size. — JVew 
York Ereniiu/ Pod. 



6 

Rev. E. P. Eoe, of Cornwall-on-the-Hudson, has exhibited specimens 
of the "Monarch of the West" strawberries, which he has raised upon his 
place from vines less than a year old. They are fully an inch in diameter, 
of a fine red color, very fragrant in smell, and very delicious to the taste. 
Mr. Roo states that they are the most readily cultivated of any variety 
which he has ever raised, and they can be raised wherever a weed will grow. 
Charles Downing, who visited liis place on Saturday, June 19th, pronounces 
the "Monarch of the West" the finest of about twenty varieties inspected, 
not excepting that which goes by his name ; though Mr. Roe himself thinks 
the "Charles Downing" variety the superior of the two. — JVeiv York 
Tribune. 

GriANTS IN These Days. — Mr. E. P. Roe, whose "Play and Profit in 

my Garden " our readers will remember, sent us last week some tangible 
evidences that he had not exaggerated its profits, however much he may 
have depreciated his own labors. Half a dozen baskets of strawberries 
were placed on our table, with scarcely a single fruit which one would care 
to take in a single mouthful. One, a "Monarch of the West," measured 
seven inches in circumference. The flavor of some of the varieties was as 
noteworthy as the size. The " Monarch " is sweet as well as large, though 
our favorite is a medium sized berry, the " Charles Downing." Mr. Roe 
has moved his garden from Highland Falls to Cornwall, and increased it 
from three to twenty-three acres. He has acres in strawberries alone and 
sends his plants as far West as the Pacific Coast. — Illustrated Christian 
Weehly, writ fen I)i/ the editor, Rev. Lijman Abbott. 

I have tried to make the chapter on the marketing of small 
fruits of special and practical value, having spent considerable 
time among the leading commission men in New York, and the 
retail dealers on Broadway and the avenues, endeavoring to learn 
from them the best and most profitable methods of shipping fruit. 
T have taken especial pains to get the Adews of the retail dealers 
as they come directly in contact with the consumers and there- 
fore know which packages sell the best and best preserve the 
fruit. They also know what varieties of fruit give the most 
satisfaction. There are so many patented baskets, cups, bowls 
and boxes pressed upon the public that one is bewildered in his 
choice. The question can best be decided not by the enthusias- 
tic puffs of the patentees, but by the verdict of the market. If 

-a 



it is a fact, that fruit " carries " better and " stands up " longer 
in one package than another — if baskets of a certain size and 
pattern find more favor with consumers and bring better prices, 
the information has a cash vnlue to us all. I shall not get my- 
self into a hornet's nest by criticising any of the perfect (?) 
patents offered, but merely mention those toward which the 
weight of favorable opinion in the market inclines. If I can 
by these means bring the growers and consumers into more direct 
communication, it would seem that I could scarcely fail in serving 
both. 

Should this little venture meet with success, I may add a 
supplement from year to year, giving the results of my own, and 
the experiments of others, during the twelve months, and the 
conclusions of my own observation and the opinions of practical 
fruit-growers concerning the new varieties that are competing for 
public favor ; a correspondence from Maine to California will 
preserve this judgment from a merely local coloring. 

I hope my little manual will lead many more into the garden. 
It is a good place to be, or man — and woman also — would not 
have been placed there in their first perfect condition. 

Wishing you nothing worse than ripe luscious berries three 
times a day for the three summer months I remain : 
Yours in the bonds of the ancient and 

Honorable guild of gardening, 

E. P. KOE. 

CoRNWALL-oN -THE- Hudson, N. Y. 



STRAWBP]RR1ES. 




o/|| SHALL commence with that fruit which comes earliest 
)| and which nature thought fit to be the companion of the 

^ r ■ J' • • 

That so many live without berries throughout the 
year — that such multitudes raise coarse weeds when a few 
hills of "Monarch of the West" strawberries would not take 
half the room nor be half as exhaustive to the soil, is one of the 
proofs of our fallen nature. Are not those who look carefully 
after their pork and potatoes but contemptuously ignore straw- 
berries, totally depraved ? There are some men who would never 
have been content in Eden until they had turned the better part 
of it into a cabbage patch. Such people need physical ethereal- 
izing by fruit diet that their grossness may be refined away. 
Rest assured, in Millennial gardens the cabbage will not crowd 
out the strawberry. 

There is another class whose seared consciences I would like 
to touch. They believe in small fruits and know their value. 
They enjoy them amazingly at a friend's table ; they even buy 
some when they are cheap, and may indulge in a forlorn weedy 
strawberry bed. But as to putting forth a little intelligent 
effort and supplying themselves abundantly — the time passes and 
this is never done. Why ? I don't know. There are some who 
seldom kiss their children, read their Bibles, listen to the birds 
or look at flowers, although they believe in all these things fully. 
They simply jog on to-day as they did yesterday, ever vaguely 
meaning at some time or other "to live up to their privileges." 



9 

But like their neglected strawberry beds they usually go on from 
bad to worse till they have to be " turned under." 

Remember, my friend — you who occasionally smack your 
lips over a chance strawberry, if you have not a productive bed 
of your own (having place for one) you are " sinning against light." 

In a city not a hundred miles from my firm there are many 
abodes of wealth with spacious grounds in which in many instan- 
ces, I am told, no place is found for the strawberry bed. "• It is 
cheaper and easier to buy them," it is said. This is thrift with 
a vengeance. No economy in brass buttons and liver}', but a 
little trouble (I doubt about the money) saved on the choicest 
luxury of the year. The idea of going out of their rural paradises 
to buy half-stale fruit ! But this class is largely at the mercy 
of the " hired man," or his more disagreeable development, the 
"^ro/mef/" gardener who gives his soul to rare plants, artichokes, 
and clipped lawns, but stints the family in all things save his 
impudence. If he tells his obsequious employers that it is 
cheaper and easier to buy their strawberries than raise them, of 
course there is naught to do but go to the market and pick up 
what they can. A true gardener like Mr. Thos. Skene, would 
send to the house a heaped basket twice a day for five weeks 
and if he had glass, for five months. 

I congratulate those who have got so far back toward man's 
first happy state as to make the raising of delicious fruits 
their daily work. But as the conditions of life have changed 
somewhat from that primitive and perfect state, and dress and 
many other costly essentials require money, I shall endeavor to 
show how every strawberry plant may be a source of profit as 
well as pleasure. 

In conclusion, I would suggest to that small class (?) who 
enjoy making others happy that there are few ways in which 
they can succeed better at home, and among their friends, than 
by supplying them often with the '' finest fruit God ever 
made." 

I trust that we are now ready to go to work, and the first 
things to be considered are, 



Soil and Situation. 

That success depends very largely upon the character of the 
soil is a well established fact. Especially must this truth be 
taken into consideration in our estimates of the different varieties. 
This truth is most clearly stated by the editor of the American 
Agriculturist. In August 1875 he writes — "All talk about 
strawberries must be with reference to particular soils. As an 
illustration of this, the llev. E. P. Roe exhibited in our office 
windows several successive lots of the ' Monarch of the West,' 
which were immense as to size and wonderful as to productive- 
ness. This same ' Monarch ' behaved in so unkingly a manner on 
our grounds (very light and sandy in their nature) that he would 
have been deposed had we not seen Mr. Roe's berries, for it was 
quite inferior to either ' Charles Downing,' ' Seth Boyden,' or 
' Kentucky.' " 

In Southern New Jersey I have seen the ' Monarch ' bearing 
finely in sand. I have succeeded well with it on both gravelly 
knolls and moist loam, and last season picked many berries that 
were five and six inches in circumference. I believe that few 
varieties are better adapted to all conditions than this berry, and 
yet the principle holds good that diversity in soil and climate causes 
great differences in the product of the same kinds. This is true 
of every fruit, the strawberry varying more than any other. A 
favorite apple or pear in one locality is almost worthless in another. 
The true way is to test upon your soil the promising kinds and 
learn which you can grow with the greatest profit. 

There are many places like my own upon which there is a 
variety of soil. I have sandy loam, stiff, cold clay, gravelly 
knolls, and black, low alluvial land. Upon such a place one 
ought to be able to raise all varieties worth cultivation with fair 
success. 

The soil adapted to the greatest number of kinds is a deep, 
moist sandy loam, airy and open in its situation. Those who 



11 

have such level plots or valleys, where the moisture never fiiils, 
can produce enormous crops at little expense. Do not mistake 
wet for moist land. Wiiore the water stands and stagnates on or 
just below the suiface, the strawberry will not thrive. But a 
little drainage may convert these low, sour lands into the most 
productive. 

While the above named soils and situations are no doubt the 
best, there are many excellent kinds that can be grown profita- 
bly on nearly all soils with a moderate outlay in preparation 
and culture. I have had fine fruit on dry knolls that were 
thought almost barren, and some of the choicest kinds will flour- 
ish on a, stift' clay. 

Avoid shade. Many wonder at their half-barren beds and 
short fruit sejison when the ground is exhausted of fertility and 
moisture by the roots of oversiiadowing trees. 

Choice of soil and exposure is one of the best and readiest 
methods of prolonging the season. I have had ripe berries from 
early kinds on a warm sunny slope the 31st of May, and fine 
fruit the middle of Jul}^ from late varieties on a cold and north- 
ern exposure. 

To the extreme north, warm land and sheltered situations 
should no doubt be chosen, but in our latitude and farther south 
it should ever be our aim to escape that hardness and dryness of 
soil which cut short the crops and hopes of so many cultivators. 

Having located our strawberry plantations, we next consider : 



The Preparation of the Soil and the best 

Fertilizers. 

The number of berries that we pick does not, usually, de- 
pend upon the area, planted, but upon the preparation and en- 
riching of the soil and the alter culture. In most instances one 
acre can be made to produce as much as two, and at less expense, 
which is ceitainly iar more satisfactory. While the strawberry 
plant will U\v uud(M almost any circumstances, let if bo most 



12 

clearly understood that large crops are only secured from a deep, 
rich, mellow soil. The ground must be thoroughly loosened and 
pulverized at least a foot, and if possible eighteen inches in depth. 

T have seen a man digging over a garden plot with a short 
fork. The ground was not stirred lower than six inches. No 
wonder that strawberries left to the mercies of the " hired man " 
usually bear so poorly. If there comes a hot dry time as they 
are beginning to fruit, they often wait to the ground. The fruit 
becomes hard and dry and late blossoms and young berries never 
mature. 

For garden culture, cover the ground at least three inches 
with the finest and oldest manure that can be had, and then plow 
jind cross-plow, or trench with a spade to the depth of eighteen 
inches, or at least one foot. If you cannot get old rotten barn- 
yard manure, take the best you can ; any fertilizer, with the ex- 
ception of lime, is better than none at all. After making the 
ground smooth the garden plot is ready for the plants. 

Does any one object that such deep stirring and enriching of 
the soil costs time and money. Of course it does, but the 
return is fifty per cent profit, while it is doubtful whether the 
old slovenly method would yield legal interest. 

But let us say here that the soil must never be worked when 
it is too wet. If it crumbles under the spade or plow, it is in 
proper condition. If it is sticky and turns up shiny from the 
plow-share wait till the sun, wind, or drainage have performed 
their offices. 

In field culture, land from which a crop of corn or potatoes 
has been taken is in a proper condition to prepare at once for 
strawberries. If full of stones, clear it as far as possible, as they 
are unsightly and prevent thorough cultivation. Cart on manure 
till the ground is thoroughly covered. Though this advice may 
not apply to Western prairies, at the east and south we rareh' 
err in over-enriching our ground. Turn all under with a heavy 
plow, followed if possible with a subsoil plow. Pick off the 
stones again if there are any, and cross-plow as deeply as possible, 
harrow and pick what stones are left and you are ready for the 



13 

plants. It is better not to mark out for them with a light corn- 
plow till just before planting, so that the roots may be placed at 
once in fresh, moist soil. I think there are but few practical 
fruit-growers who will not say that one acre prepared in this 
manner will yield as much as two run hastily over once with a 
plow and harrow and then planted with little or no manure. 

This thorough preparation gives not only a large crop, but 
also large showy fruit and a long season in picking, and here is 
where the profit comes in. Besides if the ground is rich it resists 
drouth far better than if poor. Many of the berries sent to New 
York are so inferior that they scarcely pay the expense of pick- 
ing, freight, and commission, and those who were economical of 
time and manure, or ambitious to count a large number of acres 
in fruit, learn by costly experience that only well prepared and 
cultiva,ted land returns satisfactory profit. Let no one who has 
read of unusual yields imagine that he has only to half plow an 
acre of rough poor land to secure like results. The conditions 
of success are simple but they must be complied with. Nature 
is not to be cheated nor " cornered." She ever demands square, 
straightforward dealing, or quietly checkmates. 

If the land is in fair condition for corn, enrich it with from 
30 to 50 tons of barnyard manure to the acre ; if it is poor or 
comparatively so, do not be afraid to put on 75 tons. Mix 
this thoroughly in the soil by plowing and cross-plowing. If, 
manure cannot be had, guano, bone dust, hen droppings can be 
harrowed in at the rate of 800 to 1,000 pounds to the acre ; 
though I would much prefer composting these concentrated agents 
with fifty times their weight of leaves, muck, sod, or even good 
earth. A pig-sty properly managed will enrich a large strawberry 
bed, and I find my pigs, in working over weeds, leaves, and rub- 
bish into strong manure, are worth more to me than their pork. 
A crop or two of green clover or buckwheat plowed under is most 
excellent. 

But suppose the land designed for strawberries is in stiff sod. 
In this case there must be patience and one makes haste slowly, 
A year, or at least several months, must intervene before the 



14 

ground can be suitably prepared. In the first place there must 
be time for the sod to decay thoroughly, or else there can be no 
deep plowing and clean culture. The grass and weeds will be 
almost sure to master the strawberries. But in sod land there 
is usually another enemy even more fatal than half-subdued grass 
and weeds — an ugly customer with the portentous name of 
Phyllophaga Querciua. The name is bad enough, but the thing 
itself is much worse. You need not draw a breath of relief, 
when I tell you that I mean only the white grub, the larva of the 
May-beetle that so disturbs our slumbers in early summer by its 
sonorous hum and aimless bumpings against the wall till it falls 
down back of the bed and then commences to crawl till our flesh 
is ready to creep also. This white grub, which the farmers often 
call the potato worm, is the most formidable foe the strawberry 
has, and often makes a clean sweep of them by the acre. There 
is scarcely any remedy. The only Avay is to prevent, and this 
method is directly in favor of a larger ultimate success with 
strawberries. Put sod land in corn, potatoes, or any hoed crop 
for a year, and if you detect traces of the white grub, for two 
years, and stir the soil as often as possible. Our Phyl — etc. 
beetle seldom la3^s its eggs in plowed ground, preferring grass 
land where the larva will be protected from the birds. 

But if one is in haste for strawberries he may set them out 
, in August or September after some early crop which has stirred 
the soil well. But if the plow turns up the white grub we ad- 
vise waiting at least till the following spring, stirring the ground 
several times and plowing deeply just before freezing weather. 
I had the good fortune this year to be al^le to plow, on the 3d 
and 4th of January, a piece of land infested with the grub. On 
the night of the 4th the ground froze solid and therefore 1 think 
that after a crop of early potatoes I can set out strawbei"ries by 
the 1st of August, and thus get a fair crop in June, 1877. But 
if 1 find Mr. Phyl — and family in the ground ready to com- 
mence operations, I shall suspend mine, for I have learned from 
sad experience that he and his can eat off the roots of [tlants 
faster than I can put them out. 



15 

In order to have a supply of plants, it seemed necessary for 
me to occup)^ some land that had been in sod the year before. 
As this sod was very light and the soil free from roots and weeds, 
I w;is able to subdue it sufficiently by fall-plowing. But I could 
not so briefly subdue the white grub, and every day last summer 
found scores of plants wilting. On taking hold of them I would 
find every root eaten off, while an inch or more beneath the sur- 
face, peacefull}' reposing, was the gorged destroyer. Of course 
you can vent your vengeance on a few, but as to killing them all, 
in land where they abound, I would refer the reader to Mr. 
Dudley Warner's experience with " pusley." 

This chief, and it might be added, only formidable, enemy of 
the strawberry, may be found in limited numbers in old gardens 
and where every precaution has been taken. When the plants 
are valuable it is best to dig the grubs out, and usually they are 
just below the surface early in the morning. 

If it should so happen that one had bought a new place 
which was all in grass and wished to have a strawberry bed as 
soon as possible, I would advise trenching, and burying the sod, 
inverted, in the trenches, at least a foot deep. At that depth it 
would never grow and would make an excellent fertilizer. Then 
after enriching the surface he can set out plants and take his 
chances w^ith the aforenamed grub. 

But as a general rule let sod land have one or two years of 
thorough cultivation before planting it with strawberries. 

Treatment of Different Soils and their Best 

Fertilizers. 

The practical grower soon finds that different soils require 
diverse treatment. For instance, suppose one's land is of a light 
dry, sandy, or gravelly nature. It would be great folly to treat 
this as one would stiff clay. Here we should use cooling 
manures and add vegetable matter as fast as possible. 

The cleanings of the co/o-sti\h\e are by far the best, and if 
horse-manure is used it should be composted and rotted with 



16 

clay, muck or leaves. Rotted sods and leaves over which have 
been thrown soap-suds and slops from the house make an excel- 
lent compost and are greatly improved by the addition of wood- 
ashes. Indeed I think that there are but few sandy and 
gravelly knolls so dry and sterile but that a compost of leaves 
and wood-ashes alone scattered thickly over the surfice so as 
to leach down with every rain, would make them profitably pro- 
ductive. Leaves are the natural fertilizer and mulch of the 
strawberry, and enough go to waste every year to make fertile 
every bed in the country. All light and heating manures tend 
to increase the natural dryness and lightness of the soil, whereas 
the constant aim should be to counteract this by adding the 
absent element of vegetable mould. 

Now let us consider the other extreme, a cold, stiff clay that 
may even be inclined to wetness and sourness. This opposite 
kind of soil requires directly opposite treatment. Here light and 
heating manures are the best, and, in preparing the ground, may 
be carted directly from the horse-stable and plowed in. The 
tendency of this land is to bake, crack and grow very hard. If 
a compost, well decayed, of stable manure, leaves, etc., is spread 
and left upon the surface, it obviates this and keeps the soil mel- 
low and porous. Plowing such land into ridges in November for 
the action of the winter frost is very beneficial. 

But if the water occasionally stands upon, or two or three feet 
below the surface, there can be no certain success without 
thorough drainage. I have been doing a great deal of this 
during the present open winter and can recommend the " box- 
drain " where stones are plenty. My men build two rough-faced 
walls a foot high and a foot apart, and cover with large flat 
stones, chinking in carefully with small ones so that no earth can 
find its way into the drain as the ditch is filled again. This 
leaves a water-course a foot in the clear. Where there is not 
much water, the same form of drain of half the size will answer. 
This kind of stone-work is done rapidly, as two men in two short 
winter days built thii'teen rods with a water-course six inches 
square. 



17 

Another rough cheap drain, when the flow of water is not 
great, is to set two stones upon the edges and lean them together, 
forming a kind of an arch, and then fill up with stones around 
and over them. This can be done rapidly and answers very 
well. When stone is not at hand tile no doubt will answer 
equally well. 

We have thus given a considerable space to the preparation 
and enriching of the soil. This is the foundation of all certain 
success and here is just where the majority fail. 

Having thoroughly prepared and drained the land, the next 
consideration is. 



Wheii to Plarit. 

The strawberry is so tenacious of life that it may be trans- 
planted with care at almost any season ; but there are times 
which are especially f^ivorable. In northern latitudes spring 
undoubtedly is preferable, while at the far south October and 
November are the best months. 

In spring, the ground is moist, showers usually abundant, and 
the impulse of growth is strong. At this cool season, the plants 
do not heat, or dry out during transportation, if packed with 
ordinary care. Land that is to be set with strawberries in spring 
should be thoroughly prepared the fall before, if possible. Novem- 
ber plowing is especially beneficial where the ground is inclined 
to be at all wet or heav\^ 

The earlier they are planted the better. I make it a rule to 
set them out as soon as the ground is dry enough to w^ork. Of 
course this term early is relative, and also depends upon the sea- 
son. In 1875 little could be done in the open ground before 
May, and yet in other years I have had excellent success with 
plants set out in March. February is a spring month at the far 
south, and April a winter month in high latitudes. The safe rule 
in every region is to plant as soon as possible after the ground 
is dry enough. There is much to be said also in favor of summer 



18 

and fall. Plants set out in July and August, if kept from runners, 
produce a fair crop of extra fine fruit the season following, where- 
as plants set in spring should not be permitted to bear at all. 
Thus, much time is gained by summer planting. The followin;.i 
testimonials were secured by a bed of Monarchs of the West that 
I set out in August. 

" I never saw such large berries in this country." — Mr. Ball, of Ball, 
Black & Co., New York City. 

"■ Only in Scotland have 1 seen larger berries." — Kev. Dr. J. Forsyth, 
Chaplain AVcst Point Military Academy. 

" I certainly never saw so many strawberries growing together of such 
a uniform monstrous size." — Hon. John Bigelow, Sec'y of State. 

Plantings made in September and even October often yield 
some good fruit the season following. Land on which an early 
crop has matured, instead of being left as a seed bed for weeds, 
can often be planted with strawberries to great advantage in 
July, August, or September. In our latitude plants set out even 
in November, if they survive the winter, start with wonderful 
vigor and make a much stronger growth than if planted in spring. 
1 once set a bed of Charles Downings in November. Two-thirds 
of them died, but the few remaining soon made up the loss and 
covered the ground. Some prefer October and November for 
setting, and protect the plants by drawing a couple of inches of 
earth upon them just before winter and then uncover early the 
following spring. I have not tried this to any extent but know 
a gentleman wlio succeeds with this method on a stiff clay. 

The chief difficulty in summer planting is the drouth and 
heat usual at that season. If there comes a showery time, as is 
often the case, this obstacle is removed. I set out a large num- 
ber last summer and lost a far smaller per cent, than in the 
spring, which was dry. If one has plants upon his own place, 
and can take them up with a ball of earth around the roots, 
and water after setting, they will scarcely show they have 
been moved. Even plants coming from a long distance can be 
saved bv som'b extra, care. I sent awav thousands, a,nd chieflv 



19 

by mail, all through August and September last year and there 
were only a i'ew comulaints of losses. I expect to put out two 
acres next July or August. 

Still, as a general rule and for large plantings, experience 
proves that it is safer to set out strawberries in spring. 



Obtaining Plar\ts. 

If 3^ou have them, or can get from a neighbor just what 3^ou 
w^ant. this is a simple matter. But there are multitudes who, like 
myself, in starting a new place and getting new varieties, must 
purchase at a distance. I find that sending to trustworthy dealers 
and paying a fair price, is by far the most profitable course. Some 
have a mania for getting everything cheaply, although they like 
to obtain good prices themselves. They quote to the regular 
dealer some very low terms that they have seen or heard of and 
ask to be supplied at the same rates. 

There is a large class who cultivate a few of the leading 
varieties by the acre for their fruit. In the spring they must thin 
out their plantations to keep them in bearing condition, and are 
willing to sell the surplus, — and I might almost say refuse — at 
the time for anything they can get. But to make the low prices 
for this transient supply the standard for the regular plant-grower 
who at great labor and expense keeps pure and separate a large 
and varied stock, and is read}^ to fill an order at any time in the 
season, is both unjust and absurd. In buying new stock I go to 
men who have won a reputation and whose prosperity depends 
upon their keeping it — who will honestly try to sell me just what 
I ask for and believe that they are doing so. 

I have heard of agents and transient men buying a large 
number of plants of a single kind and then filling all their orders 
from this one lot, putting on labels of different varieties to suit 
their customers. The established fruit-grower, even if lie is not 
a gentleman, cannot afford any such trickery. Of course mis- 
takes are made by the most careful, but they are mistakes and 



20 

not something else. EA'-en though we do our best, trouble often 
arises. It is very easy to say that one's plants are pure, but not 
so easy to be sure of it until after they have fruited. 

Though you buy your stock from the most trustworthy 
growers, through some mistake, or the carelessness of a workman, 
another kind is sent and put unsuspectingly among pure plants, 
or a few plants by some chance are tied up where they do not 
belong. You think your plants are pure but find as they come 
into bearing that they are mixed. I have so trained my eye, that I 
recognize the fruit and foliage of the leading kinds instantly, and 
if a plant even looks suspicious I now dig it up and throw it away, 
as I do also plants that produce poor and imperfect berries. I 
have more and more faith in careful selection, and in propagating 
from superior stock, and shall take special pains to carry out this 
principle on my new place. I wish to be able to say of my stock, 
I know it is pure. 

Do not be deterred by distance from sending for what you 
want. Where but a few hundred plants are desired for home use 
the mail offers great fjicilities. In 1875 I sent more than 32,000 
strawberry plants through the mails in addition to those for- 
warded by express, and there was but little complaint and loss 
even during hot weather. 

Of course large orders and bulky kinds of plants must go 
by express or freight. 



Wl)at kir\ds to Plant. 

This is a question upon which few will agree and I do not 
hope for a general endorsement. But I shall give the best light 
on the subject I can, suggesting that the grower must learn 
largely by experience what kinds he can raise most profitably 
upon his soil and in his locality and with reference to his market. 
For the main crop I would advise that half or two -thirds of one's 
land be set out with Wilson's Albany seedling. This variety 



21 

is the strawberry wheat and will always sell at some price. 
There are but few regions where it cannot be grown profitabl3% 
and it certainly is the most abundant bearer of any variety yet 
generally known. On strong moist land it will produce enormous 
crops of fair sized berries. But if the ground is poor and becomes 
hard and dry during the bearing season the fruit runs A^ery small 
toward the last, and scarcely pays for picking. 

After the main planting of the Wilson, there are a dozen good 
varieties to choose from, and which of these are the most profit- 
able will depend largely upon the nature of the soil, locality and 
market. If the soil is a good moist loam or inclined to clay, I 
would recommend Triomphe de Gand, Jucunda and President 
Wilder, grown in narrow rows. These varieties always bring 
high prices, but on light land and with ordinary culture seldom 
pay. On a thin sandy soil I would suggest Seth Boyden, Mon- 
arch of the West, Charles Downing, Kentucky Seedling, and 
Champion, adding that these strong growing varieties with ordinary 
care will grow and bear well on almost any soil. The Downer 
and Green Prolific flourish where a weed will, and few weeds 
can get the better of them. They bear abundantly berries that 
are tolerable for home use but too soft for market. They are 
good varieties for those who want strawberries without labor. 
On the other hand, for the amateur who is willing to pet his plants 
and keep all runners cut, the La Constant, Lenig's White, Black 
Defiance, and Kissena give beautiful and delicious fruit. There 
are also new varieties of great promise, the best of which to 
my knowledge are the Star of the West and Kerr's Prolific seed- 
ling. One of the largest, the latest and most beautiful berry thjit 
I have seen is the Pros. Wilder. To my taste its flavor is 
unsurpassed and it also brings the highest prices. It bears well 
w^ith me, but requires a strong, moist, rich soil. It should have a 
place in every garden. For general culture after the Wilson 
I would recommend the Seth Boyden, Charles Downing, and 
Monarch of the West. I would also advise the trial of several 
other varieties, as the Colonel Cheney, Triomphe de Gand, &c., 
on a limited scale. The grower must learn by expeiience what 



22 

kinds he can raise with profit, for soil and locality cause more 
differences in the strawberry than in any other fruit. In some 
markets quantity is the main thing, but in New York fine quality 
and size secure the largest returns ; I therefore am planting 
chiefly the large varieties. In order to have a long strawberry 
season, plant on a warm southern slope the Nicanor, Black 
Defiance, Wilson, and Triomphe, or other early kinds. The 
leading varieties that I have named will come in as the main crop. 
For late fruit select a moist soil with a cool northern exposure 
where tlie snow melts late, and set out President Wilder, 
Kentucky, Jucunda and Triomphe de Gand. While the last is 
early, it also continues late, remaining in bearing longer, if kept 
free from runners, than any other kind with which I am ac- 
quainted. New varieties may enable us to extend the season 
still more. The monthly Alpines will bear till frost, and in rich 
moist soil give considerable fruit in the fall. 

I am more and more inclined to believe that even those vari- 
eties that bear perfect flowers, i. e., both stamens and pistils, are 
rendered increasingly productive by growing near each other, so 
that the pollen, during the season of bloom, passes freely across 
the different beds with every breeze and is carried from one blos- 
som to another by the honey-gathering bees. While I keep my 
beds far enough anart to prevent all intermixture by their running 
together I think that I get better crops by growing several vari- 
eties as neighbors. 

How to Plai\t. 

In the moist season of spring this is usually a simple matter, 
and careless work succeeds. And yet there is a difference 
between plants merely living and having them start at once into 
vigorous growth. Skill and care always pay, though they are not 
always necessary. 

In the spring take a handful of plants, stretch out the roots 
straight and shorten them by cutting off at least one-third of 
their length. Where plants are bought, they often come tied in 



23 

bundles of fifty, and the work of cutting off the ends of the roots 
can be done readily with a sharp knife. Set out if possible on -a 
dill day. A cold dry wind is far worse than the mild radiance 
of an April or May sun. In any case the roots must be kept 
moist by moss or water till they are in the ground — the roots, 
not the tops. Many leave their plants in water till the life is 
soaked out of them. Do not plant when the ground is wet and 
sticky, unless during or just before a rain. If the sun and wind 
strike wet ground immediately after it has been stirred it often 
becomes like hard mortar. In the spring, and especially in 
summer and fall it is better to set plants soon after the prepara- 
tion of the soil, before even the surface has time to dry. In the 
field harrow the land smooth, use a line if possible, or let some 
one mark out with, a plow who is not like a man that once 
worked for us and planted corn so crooked that the crows could 
not find it. Let the rows for field culture be three feet apart and 
the plants stand one foot from each other in the row. At this 
distance 14,520 will be required for an acre. Spread the roots 
out as far as possible and put them down their full depth but do 
not cover the crown of the plants. Press the ground ^nw/^ around 
the roots. Millions of plants are lost by loose, careless setting. 

In the garden where the plow will not be used the rows may 
be two feet apart instead of three and the plants one foot apart 
in the row. Or beds four feet wide can be made with a walk of 
two feet between them. Put three rows down each bed, plant- 
ing the first six inches from the walk and the other two rows 
eighteen inches apart. If plants are scarce or high, they can be 
set three feet apart in the row and each one permitted to make 
two new plants which can, be caused to take root in the row so 
as to leave each one a foot apart, which I think is the best dis- 
tance. But to be sure of a good strong bearing bed the following 
season it is not safe to set the plants less than one foot apart in 
the row. 

Even in spring, unless the ground is very moist and the time 
showery, it is well to give the plants a good sprinkling. If it is 
at all dry and hot, water thoroughly, and after the water has 



24 

soaked away, draw a little dry earth over the wet surface to 
prevent its baking and to retain the moisture. 

In summer and fall planting there will be no trouble if we 
can hit upon a showery time. But it is not always convenient 
or possible to wait. If we are setting out plants from our own 
place, it can readily be done, except in a severe drouth, by taking 
them up with a ball of earth around the roots. Use a garden 
trowel or spade, cutting down on four sides so that the soil will 
not crumble away from the roots. With a hand barrow, or 
some boards nailed across two poles, a couple of men can take up 
a hundred or more at a time, and carry them without jarring to 
the bed where, holes having been prepared before, they can be 
put at once into their places. In this way I have set out large 
beds in the heat and drouth of August, scarcely losing a plant, 
and expect to set two acres next summer after taking off a crop 
of early potatoes. Of course the plants so removed need one or 
two liberal waterings and then dry earth drawn up around them 
the next morning. It should be done in the cool of the after- 
noon or upon a cloudy day. A few rows can be set out every 
evening, preparing the ground just before, so that it may be 
moist and fresh. 

The same result can be secured with even greater certainty 
by another method. In most country homes there are small 
flower-pots lying idle during the summer, or it will pay to buy a 
hundred or more four inch pots. These can be sunk in the 
earth so that the rims are just below the surface along the rows 
from which new plants are desired, and the runners so guided 
that they will take root in the pots. If this is done the middle 
of July, by the first of August you will have strong plants that 
can be set out in beds to fruit the next year and the pots used in 
the same way again. From many growers potted plants can be 
bought in August, and unless treated with utter neglect are sure 
to grow. Plants set out by either of the above methods in sum- 
mer or early in fall yield a fine crop of splendid berries the 
season following. ' 

But ordered plants often come by mail or express in hot dry 



25 

weather and there is no earth around their roots to give them a 
start. They should be opened at once and placed in a cool cellar 
with damp moss around the roots, or the roots buried in some 
moist shady place till evening. In the afternoon prepare the 
ground so that it may be fresh, and as soon as the sun is off com- 
mence setting. If the roots look at all black shorten them one- 
third as in spring, in order to stimulate a new growth. Other- 
wise we do not shorten roots in summer and fall. Mix good, 
fine garden soil wdth water till a. sticky paste is made that will 
coat the roots as you dip them into it, then put them down their 
full depth in the moist soil, spreading them as far as it can be 
done, and press the ground very firmlij about them. Water thor- 
oughly, soak the ground and then draw over the wet surface dry 
earth. It is well to shade them for a few days by large inverted 
flower-pots, boards, shingles, old strawberry baskets, etc. A 
mulch of cut grass or litter of any kind that serves to keep the 
ground moist, is of value. I have had excellent success on a 
large scale by throwing a handful of coarse weeds on the top of 
each plant, being sure to remove them by five p. m. each day, 
and putting them back in the morning, continuing the protection 
till the plants start to grow. Then the danger is over unless it 
should be very dry, in which case the ground around them must 
be kept moist till rain comes. By the liberal use of mulch, this 
can be done quite easily. 

With late ftill plantings, as in spring, there is little danger from 
drouth and heat, but the plants often do not become sufficiently 
established to stand the winter. 

I would suggest the general trial of the experiment of covering 
late plantings with two inches of earth in November or December 
according to latitude and then uncovering early in spring. Time 
and labor is abundant in the fall and plants which can be made 
to survive the winter start with almost double vigor in the spring. 

But if one is going to plant largely and can get his land ready 
the work can be more easily and safely performed in spring than 
any other time. 

Having set out our [)lants we next consider 



26 



Modes of Culture. 

As a general thing our after treatment will depend upon our 
object — fruit or plants. Witli me a rapid increase of plants is 
the chief object from most of my beds. All I have to do in this 
case is to make the ground very rich, keep out the weeds and let 
them run, which they will generally do fast enough. They can 
be greatly aided in rooting however by keeping the surface loose 
and by top dressing with fine rich compost in July and August. 
Even those not rooted in October will make good plants by spring 
if the ground is well top-dressed, scattering the fine manure broad- 
cast over the plants. When the variety is valuable I have them 
layered by pressing the young plant into the soil and drawing a 
little earth over it. But while raising plants is simple enough it 
is even more expensive to cultivate for fruit as the ground 
between the rows cannot be kept clean by mulch nor the cultiva- 
tor, but must be weeded out in large areas by hand. Where 
plants are the object the land can scarcely be made too rich, and a 
top-dressing of wood-ashes and a compost of hen-manure and fine 
earth in the spring and just before rains during the summer, are 
grent stimulants. Where these cannot be had^ guano and bone- 
dust are excellent. But these strong concentrated manures must 
be used with care or they will burn the plants like fire. It is usu- 
ally best to mix them with ten times their bulk of earth or muck, 
and scatter the compost around, very near, but not on the vines. 

I shall keep my beds free from old plants by stretching a- 
line along the old rows about the 1st of September and spading 
them deeply under. After strawberries have been grown upon a 
piece of land about four years I shall turn all under as soon as 
they are done bearing and sow buckwheat and plow this under 
as it comes into flower. The following spring I shall plant pota- 
toes, corn or a root crop. And after the land has had the rest of 
change plant again in strawberries. Raspberries or any other 
of the small fruits can be planted with advantage on ground that 
has been in strawberries. 



27 

With the majority, however, strawberries are raised solely for 
the sake of their fruit. As a general thing it requires considera- 
ble time, and extensive and therefore expensive advertising to 
build up a profitable business in plants. 

What is the best method of culture where fruit is the chief 
object ? I will briefly give that one which most pleases me, and 
then name some others which may be better and more satisfactory 
to the grower. 

For the field I prefer that the rows be three feet apart, 
and the plants one foot apart in the row. If set out in spring, 
keep the plow, cultivator and hoe going among them so that 
the ground is always loose and free of weeds. Let no runners 
grow. If you want new plants of the variety, set out a bed 
for the purpose and let them cover the ground. There is no 
such excessive labor in keeping off the runners as many sup- 
pose. A little boy or girl with a pair of shears, by going over 
the plants once a week, in the running season, will keep a very 
large area free. When there are children in the family, the 
work is so light as to be almost play ; and if they are paid some- 
thing, the satisfaction of earning money for themselves will 
change the task into a pleasure. Where many are grown it will 
pay well to hire one or two good boys and they will keep acres 
clipped. There is no need of putting high-priced labor at the 
work. Thus the plants, whether set in spring or fall, are permitted 
to make no runners unless the varieties are very scarce. Even 
if they are, I keep a few hills or rows clipped to see what they 
will do with good culture. It must soon become obvious to those 
who have studied the habits of most varieties of strawberries, 
that a plant will expend most of its vitality in its effort to propa- 
gate itself If the best results in fruit are desired, this vitality 
must be restricted to the one office of producing berries. 

By fall, plants treated in this way touch each other and 
make a strong, bushy, continuous row. Of course if any of the 
plants die, I let enough run to fill up the spaces. By having 
but a single line of plants the plow and cultivator can run very 
close to them the first year, thus keeping the ground mellow and 



28 

moist and leaving but little hoeing and handwork. Pick off all 
blossoms and permit no fruit to form the first year unless it be on 
a very few strong plants of some new variety in order to get an 
idea of the quality. As the ground begins to freeze, I cover 
the rows two inches deep with light strawy stable-manure, leaA^es, 
or any coarse litter, but never with strong wet manure. Ever- 
green boughs, where they can be obtained with little trouble, 
make one of the best winter protections, and for a choice bed in 
the garden it is often well to take a little pains to procure them. 

Early in the spring, before the plants begin to grow to any 
extent, dig or plow the spaces between the row^s. After the 
plants are in blossom they must not be disturbed, unless the 
ground has been neglected and grown hard or weedy. In this 
case I believe it is better to loosen the soil with a small subsoil 
plow, fork, or long pointed hoe, get out the weeds, and put on a 
mulch, or they will smother the crop ; and if there comes a drouth, 
the fruit will be small and almost worthless on hard, and therefore 
dry ground. But there should be no such neglect wdiere people 
wish to succeed. Stir and clean the land between the rows and 
pull out all weeds as soon as the ground is dry enough to work ; 
then level it down and put on the mulch at once while it is moist 
and mellow. Leaves^ marsh hay, especially old dead grass from 
the rakings of the lawn, make an excellent mulch. " Enough litter 
is burnt every spring to double the strawberry crop. Having 
put the mulch on two or three inches deep so that weeds cannot 
grow through it, the plants may be left till after the picking sea- 
son is over. The mulch serves a quadruple purpose, keeping 
the ground moist, the weeds from growing, the fruit clean, and in 
wet weather enabling one to walk between the rows without mir- 
ing or getting muddy. Berries that lie down in the mud and sand 
will not sell in any market, and for our own tables we prefer 
powdered sugar and cream to a mixture of rain water and earth. 

If before or during the bearing season a few rampant weeds 
show themselves in the rows or elsewhere, they can be pulled 
out by hand. Do not hope to raise many strawberries and many 
weeds on the same ground. Virtue w^ill fare just about as well 



29 

with rnmpant vice in the same heart. Both weeds and vices are 
fought best when they are little. Mr. Downing tohl me of a man 
who was noted for having one of the neatest and cleanest nurseries 
in the conntry. The secret of his success was that he kept 
stirring the ground so often that the weeds could not get started 
or established. At the same time he employed less help than 
others cultivating the same space. If, as is often the case on good 
ground and with some varieties, the plants commence running in 
June, let the little boy commence with his shears and continue to 
clip off all runners as long as they form. 

The mulch can be left between the rows, keeping the weeds 
from growing during the busy season. About the first of Septem- 
ber the mulch will be quite rotten and the weeds pushing through 
it. Now spade or plow it under and weed the rows out thor- 
ough W. But the best results will be obtained by digging the 
mulch under as soon as the bearing season is over and cultivating 
between the rows till the plants are again covered for winter. 
This turning under the mulch in July, August, or even September, 
will so renew the plants that by winter they will be stronger 
than ever and give even a better crop the ensuing year. Beds 
thoroughly cleaned in September will scarcely become weedy 
before winter and can wait till spring before another weeding. 
Thus with a heavy mulch between the rows, two thorough clean- 
ings a year will keep them in good condition in most cases. As 
the ground begins to freeze give winter protection as before. 

This treatment can be kept up from three to six years, 
according to the variety. The Triomphe de Gand would con- 
tinue productive even seven years, I think. 

As soon as the plants of any kind begin to fail, dig or plow 
all under and make a new bed somewhere else. Do not keep a 
strawberry bed ten or fifteen years in the same place, saying 
with an acquaintance of mine, " It is more convenient there than 
an \' where else." Nature in this respect is justly called a " dame," 
and her will is not to be trifled with. She has a feminine love 
of variety and gets tired even of strawberries after a time. If 
one aims, therefore, to put his beds not merely where they are 



30 

convenient, but where he will get fruit, he will move them around as 
often as possible and give the land the change of a different crop. 

The " hill-s3'stem " is similar to the above only the plants are 
kept farther apart, so that in some cases the cultivator can go 
between them both ways. I do not think, as a rule, any larger 
fruit is obtained by this method than from the narrow and con- 
tinuous row, and there are grave objections to it. It leaves too 
much space unoccupied. It is difficult to mulch these wide open 
spaces so as to keep the ground moist. These unproductive 
spaces are apt to be widened by plants dying. In the single row 
system if a plant dies a runner can be allowed to take root at 
once in its place. 

What is termed the " annual system " has great advantages, 
especially where one has plenty of land and can shift his beds 
often. In this case the soil is made very rich and the plants are 
put out in spring. The spaces between the rows are cultivated 
and kept clean until the runners start strongly and then these 
are left to cover all the ground, which they will do by fall. On 
the approach of winter the entire surface is covered with marsh 
hay, leaves or strawy manure, the coarsest of which is raked off in 
spring and stacked for future use. Some employ straw cut into 
inch pieces which is left on the ground, the plants growing up 
through it. Pine leaves or needles are an excellent mulch or 
winter protection. After the winter covering is taken off, paths 
a foot wide are cut through the beds for the pickers and the rest 
of the plants are left to fruit. Immediately after bearing they 
are plowed under and the following year a crop of corn or pota- 
toes is cultivated, and then the next spring the land is set with 
strawberries again. Thus only one crop is taken from a plant- 
ing. This is found a very profittible way of cultivating certain 
varieties like the Hovey, Wilson, Charles Downing, etc. But it 
will not succeed well with the very large varieties like the Seth 
Boyden, Monarch, Jucunda, and Triomphe, etc. In land that 
is inclined to be very weed}^ and grassy or to become hard if 
not stirred and mulched, I fear these closely matted beds would 
disappoint in hot, dry seasons. 



31 

Mr. Wm. Pany, who is one of the most practical and suc- 
cessful horticulturists on a large scale, in New Jersey, gives the 
following as one of his favorite methods of culture : 

•'Apian that has given good satisfaction with me is to open furrows 
2-|- feet apart, and spread a preparation of equal parts of marl, ashes and 
ground bone along the furrows, after it has been mixed and incorporated 
together for ten days or two weeks, until the heat, generated by the action 
of the ashes and marl, has mellowed and softened the bone so that the 
particles will crumble like chalk when rubbed between the thumb and 
fingers. Using one ton of the ground bone, and the same quantity each 
of ashes nnd marl, on five acres, will give a vigorous growth of dark green 
foliage to the strawberries. 

" The ground being frequently stirred with horse and cultivator close to 
the rows, leaves but a small portion of the ridge between the plants to be 
loosened with the hoe. As the runners extend and widen the beds, the 
cultivator is made narrower ; and care being taken to pass along the alleys 
every time in the same direction, drawing the runners always in one way 
will leave them more even and regular than if drawn both ways by going 
back and forth in the same alley. The plants then form ridges about 18 
inches wide with alleys one foot wide between them. This plan is more 
certain and reliable than keeping the jjlants in hills and cutting off the 
runners. There is less hand labor, most of the cultivation being done by 
horse-power, and if some of the plants should be destroyed by grubs or 
insects, there will be enough left to produce a good crop of fruit. 

" At the approach of cold weather or beginning of winter give them a 
good coat of stable manure, spread evenly all over the plants. If the rows 
are 2^ feet apart, a horse and each cart wheel will follow along an alley 
without injuring tlic i)lants. The covering with manure is of great impor- 
tance, as it protects the l)uds and embryo fruit from severe freezing, and 
prevents the roots from lifting and heaving out as the frost leaves the 
ground. The rains, soaking the strength of the manure into the soil, give 
food and nourishment to the roots. The straw and coarser materials, 
being bleached and beaten close to the ground by the winter's snow and 
rain, do not prevent the young growth from coming through in the spring, 
but serve to keep the fruit clean in summer." 

I should regard this method as peculiarly adapted to Mr. 
Parry's land, which is a very light, sandy loam, in no danger of 
baking or becoming hard, and not greatly troubled with grass or 
white clover, I should judge. 

But I think that in most localities the method first described 



32 

if faithfully carried out will give the most satisfaction and profit, 
especiall}^ in the garden. 

As the cultivator grows in experience he will try methods 
of his own and modify others to suit himself. One method how- 
ever will always be exceedingly popular. People will buy good 
pLmts but let them stand around in the wind and sun or mould- 
ing in the cellar until much injured. Tlien they will set them 
out on poor, half-prepared ground and leave them to an unequal 
fio'ht with oTass and weeds till picking time when the wretched 
crop will lead them to berate both the plant-dealer and straw- 
berry culture as arrant humbugs. They will then plow the 
half-choked plants under and return to their congenial crops of 
cabbage, corn, etc. 

Raising new^ Varieties. 

If one wishes to raise new varieties he can do so in a hap- 
hazard way very easily. Select very fine berries of the different 
kinds which contain the qualities which are sought to be united 
in a new variety and mash them into dry sand so that all moist- 
ure is absorbed. Prepare a seed-bed of rich fine soil in a half- 
shady place, sow the mingled sand and seed at once and sift 
through a coal sieve fine rich earth upon them till they are covered 
one-quarter of an inch. Keep the seed-bed moist and in four 
weeks the little plants will begin to appear. On the approach of 
winter cover the young plants with one or two inches of straw. 
In the spring put them out eighteen inches apart each way and 
number them. Keep off all runners. A few may bear the first 
year, but you cannot tell much about them till the second. 
Then you can thin out your seedlings very fast, for most of them 
will prove far inferior to those now in cultivation. A few may be 
pretty good. Two or three may be excellent. One or two may 
.possibly be first class, even better than anything known. But the 
probabilities are that out of 1000 seedlings you will not get one 
as good as many varieties we now have. Raising new seedlings 
is an innocent and useful form of gambling in which blanks are 



33 

innumerable. But to di'Jiw a prize like the Chas. Downing or 
Seth Boyden is a good thing for the whole countr}^ as well as for 
the fortunate possessor. Seedlings of promise should be taken 
up with a ball of earth and set by themselves where they can 
spread and be tested more fully. When in blossom note and 
mark carefully whether the flowers are pistillate or perfect. 
Flowers which possess both stamens and pistils and which 
fertilize themselves, producing fruit without the aid of another 
variety, are termed "perfect." 

The mysteries of scientific hybridization and forcing under 
glass do not come within the scope of this practical hand-book. 
For these and kindred topics, the history of small-fruits, and full 
lists of varieties, few of which are in general cultivation, I refer 
the reader to the valuable works of A. S. Fuller and others, which 
can be bought at the office of the American Agriculturist, 245 
Broadway, New York. 

At the close of this manual will be found a chapter on pick- 
ing, preparing small-fruits for market, and the best packages for 
shipping. 

Varieties. 

I will close this chapter on strawberries with a description of 
some of the leading kinds that are now in favor. 

Monarch of the West.— The largest of all ; fruit enormous, 
and averaging large to the last. I picked one berry that measured 
7 inches around, and others 6 J, 6, and 5 inches. It is also the 
most vigorous grower I have seen. Though so large it has a very 
fine flavor and a delightful aroma. With me it has proved a good 
bearer on both light and heavy soil, and I have seen it loaded 
with fruit on the New Jersey sand. A superb variety for home 
use, but a little soft I fear for distant markets. With a near 
market and with careful handling it will bring the highest prices. 

Seth Boyden (No. 30).— This is still one of my chief favo 
rites. Though a comparatively new variety, its reputation is 



34 

now established as one of the very finest. It certainly is the 
sweetest of all the large berries, and for home use cannot be sur- 
passed. It scarcely requires sugar, and yet is far from being 
insipid. It is one of the strongest growers and very hardy. With 
slight protection, it will stand the severest winters. Berries im- 
mensely large, very many under ordinary culture measuring four 
inches around, and some five. A good bearer. I have sold many 
bushels in New York at 40 cents per quart, and they retailed 
at 50 cents. I have disposed of many thousand plants of this 
kind, and, though soil, locality and culture make a great differ- 
ence with every variety, I am hearing from all quarters, golden 
opinions of the " Seth Boyden." A gentleman who has tested 
hundreds of varieties, places it as second best on his long list, 
after a careful comparison in the fruiting season. He regards 
the '"' Monarch of the West " as the best on his sandy soil. A 
friend writes that he picked as many quarts of " Seth Boyden," 
from a half acre as from the same area of Wilson, kept carefully 
in hills, and adds that they carry excellently to market. I find 
that they " stand up " among the best. Many complain of the 
" green tip," but if they will only leave them till ripe, they will 
find no "green tip," 

Charles Downing.— One of the best varieties grown. Fruit 
large and abundant. The more I see and hear of this kind the 
more I find in its favor. It is extremely vigorous, hardy and 
productive. It seems to do well on any soil, and is excellent for 
home use, but soft for distant markets. 

President Wilder.— Locality seems to make great differences 
with this variety, but upon my soil I regard it as one of the 
best. It is with me exceedingly large, quite prolific, and one 
of the very latest. It is the handsomest berry I have, and in 
color, shape, and flavor cannot be surpassed. It carries to market 
weH and brings the highest prices. But in some localities I am 
told it does not do so well, and I have seen it looking poorly. 
It requires good soil and thorough culture. I like it better every 
year. 



35 

Triomphe de Gand,— An old, well established favorite. If 
I were compelled to raise but one strawberry I would choose this 
variety, for the reason that it remains so long in bearing, and 
has also the good qualities of being large, firm, of a sweet, rich 
flavor, and a good bearer. But it requires high culture and the 
runners well cut. A bed of Triomphes, well cared for, will last 
longer than any other kind I have known. 

Champioili — A very promising new^ variety. Fruit large, 
and of a spicy acid flavor. Plants very vigorous and exceed- 
ingly productive. I have fi'uited it and have seen large beds in 
bearing, and it bids fair to be one of the best. Season medium 
to late. It must be planted near other kinds, as it will not bear 
alone. Last season's fruiting has greatly increased my confidence 
in this variety. 

Wilson's Albany Seedling.— The most abundant bearer in 
existence. I have known single plants to produce over 400 ber- 
ries. It is the great market berry, of medium size, firm, and 
very acid, 

JuCUnda4 — A superb variety if you can obtain it pure and 
right, which I have found considerable difficulty in doing. I 
had a bed in full bearing this year, which I know to be pure, 
and a more beautiful sight I never -saw in the way of strawberries. 
Fruit enormous, bright colored, and firm. It should have rich 
soil and runners cut. 

Black Defiance. — A very large, dark colored , high flavored 
berry ; excellent for home use. Too dark for market. Only 
moderately productive with me. 

Lady of the Lake. — A very fine berry and worthy of a 
place in all collections. 

Lenig's White.— A beautiful and delicious white berry with 
a pink blush. It is a strong grower and hardy, but should be 
kept rigorously in narrow rows. It is a shy bearei- at best. 

Late Prolific. — Neither late nor very prolific with me, but 



36 

well worth a place in an amateur's collection. Large, showy, 
and of a sprightly acid flavor. 

Matildai — A large, showy berry, fruitful, vigorous in its 
growth, and like its parent the Jucunda requires a deep rich soil. 

Colonel Cheney. — As a market berry this variety is coming 
into favor, and is said to be very large and handsome. I shall 
test it quite thoroughly this coming season. I know that it is a 
good grower. Its flow^ers are not sufficiently perfect to bear 
well alone and it is well to plant Wilsons on either side. 

Kentucky. — One of the very best late strawberries, of bright 
showy color, a, moderate bearer. The flesh is pure white and of 
excellent flavor, and the fruit large. 

Agriculturist. — Very large, irregular, with a long neck and 
inclined to be flat and coxcombed in shape. It does best on a 
light soil. With me it was prone to decay and scald. It is 
rather soft for market. 

Nicanor, — A medium to small, bright colored berry, very 
early — the earliest that I have seen, hardy and productive. 

Downer's Prolific— The lazy man's berry. Medium to 
large, soft, acid, highly perfumed, early, hardy, and an enormous 
bearer. 

Green Prolific. — Another lazy man's strawberry, as it will 
grow where a weed will and produce plenty of fruit, such as it is, 
soft, acid, large, and of a pale crimson. 

Dr. Warder. — A large, long pointed berry, very firm, late, 
j&ne, but with me a moderate bearer. 

Hovey. — An old varietj^ and still much esteemed in some 
localities, especially near Boston. It is large, conical, bright 
crimson, and of a good sprightly flavor. It will not bear by 
itself, as it is a pistillate variety. 

Russell's Prolific— Very large, deep scarlet and of good 
quality, doing best on light land. 

La Constant, — A beautiful and delicious berry, but requir- 



37 

ing the richest soil and highest culture with runners cut. A 
fine fruit for the amateur. 

The monthly bush Alpines, white and red, should also find a 
place in the garden, since upon rich, moist soil and with clean 
culture they will supply the table until frost. 

If any enjoy a musky flavor let them cultivate a bed of 
Hautbois. 

This is but a very partial list. There are hundreds of old 
varieties which in the main have gone out of favor. There are 
also scores of new ones, very few of which, notwithstanding the 
enthusiasm of the originators, will ever become established favor- 
ites. I shall test these new comers and report accurately on 
their behavior with me. The two most promising new varieties 
with which I am acquainted are the following. The first is thus 
described by a trustworthy grower who has fruited it:- 

" The two Great Strawberries now claiming attention are the 
Star of the West and the Monarch of the West. The latter 
has been fully described, and largely planted for market; one 
grower, after proving its good qualities, planted ten acres. 

" The Star of the West, more recently introduced, is destined 
to rise far above the Monarch. It has large strong foliage of a 
dark green color, leaves moderatel}^ serrated, with strong fruit- 
stalks, blossoms perfect, fruit uniformly large, measuring three 
to four inches in circumference, bright deep red, smooth, firm 
flesh of delicious quality ; very productive, carries well and will 
be in great demand." 

Kerr's ProlifiCi — This is the new variety upon which I prom- 
ised a report in my spring circular, and I am glad to say that it is 
fulfilling its rich promise. It is a very vigorous grower, hardy, 
exceedingly productive, fruit handsome, fine flavored, averaging 
large. Of its market qualities I cannot 3'et speak fully. That 
is a question which experience must settle. If it is firm enough 
it will be a first-class market berry. The editor of the Home, 
Farm and Orchard says of it : 

"We have had the opportunity from generous samples to test 



38 

the quality 'of this strawberry, raised by Mr. Robert A. Kerr, 
and we do not expect to find a better flavored or finer berry." 

We have enough merely good berries. As the proverb goes, 
" There is always room at the top." If better varieties than we 
now have can be originated they will be most welcome. That 
any of the new and wonderful kinds that are now being trumpeted 
over the land are better, can only be learned by a careful trial, 
reaching through a number of years and over a wide and varied 
region of country. 

But we have no cause to complain, for the long list of good 
and very good varieties is like the bill of fare at a fashionable 
hotel of which a traveler complained that it would take him a 
week to eat his way through it. 

They who live without strawberries, certainly miss one of 
the best things that this old, thorny, and thistle-cursed globe 
can produce. Man's folly gave the devil a chance to plant his 
hoof on Eden, but he was not permitted to stamp it all out of 
existence, and one of the daintiest little bits remaining is ripe 
with us about the tenth of June. 



RASPBERRIES. 



AM taking an increasinp; interest in this fruit, as the fol- 
lowing, from the JVeiv York Evangelist, will suggest : — 
" Our friend, Rev. E. P. Roe, has on exhibition at the 
office of the American Agriculturist, 245 Broadway, seven- 
teen distinct varieties of rasjjberries — Herstine, Hudson River 
Antwerp, Franconia, Highland Hardy, Saunders, Belle de Palluau,- 
Belle de Fontenay, Vice-President French, Clark, Old Purple 
Cane, Brandy wine, Philadelphia, Mammoth Cluster, Doolittle, 
Davison's Thornless, an unknown variety, and a seedling that 
promises to be exceedingly valuable, as it is as large and firm 
as the Antwerp, and stood out last winter without protection." 

Why families are without this delicious and easily raised 
fruit is a mystery. It also promises to be increasingl}^ profitable 
to those who are near good markets, as from its softness those at 
a distance cannot compete. Pears and grapes may be sent from 
California, but not raspberries. 

The list of good raspberries is not by any means as long as 
that of strawberries ; not that there are not a great many varieties 
in the catalogues, and many new candidates for favor which are, 
as yet, guarded by the sanguine proprietors as jealously as harem 
beauties, but there are but few of them which are known to be 
productive and vigorous, except in limited localities, and under 
very favorable circumstances. There is still great room for im- 
provement in this fruit, and he who can originate a large, firm, 
bright colored berry growing on hardy, productive, vigorous canes, 



40 

and adapted to a wide range of country, ought to greatly advance 
his own fortunes, and certainly will confer a benefit on the public 
at large. 

The Hudson River Antwerp has been regarded as the type 
of excellence, and, as it once grew, it has not been equalled by 
anything that I have yet seen. But even in its palmy days it 
flourished only in a limited locality on the western bank of the 
Hudson River. Immediately opposite, on the eastern shore, it 
could not be grown with profit. Even in its favorite haunts it 
has, of late years, failed greatly, though by some it is now 
thought to be recovering something of its old vigor, under high 
culture and upon new land. As it is such a splendid variety, the 
fruit always commanding the highest prices, I have set it out 
quite largely, intending to try wood ashes as a fertilizer. 

I have a seedling, which much resembles the H. R. Antwerp 
in its fruit, from which I am hoping great things. But the plant 
itself is very different. It originated by chance, in an old gar- 
den in the city of Newburgh, N. Y. A fuller description of the 
locality will be given hereafter. Its roots were intertwined with 
those of an old grape vine and currant bush, and it has never had 
half a chance. But it produced such fine fruit as to attract much 
notice, and my cousin, Mr. T. Hazard Roe, was induced to mark 
and leave it for future observation. During the summer of 1874 
it made a vigorous growth without any extra stimulus w^hatever, 
one of the canes attaining the length of fourteen feet. It received 
no protection at all throughout the very severe winter of '74-5, the 
canes merely being left upon the grape arbor. Its appearance 
during the fruiting season of 1875 is thus described by Mr, Ben- 
sel, editor of the " Home, Farm and Orchard'' who carefully exam- 
ined into the merits of this new candidate, and says : " Two or 
three years ago a raspberry plant sprang up in the garden of Mr. 
T. Hazard Roe, in this city, which was permitted to grow as a 
matter of curiosity and because it insisted upon growing. The 
seedling was not Liid down nor otherwise protected during the 
winter, but each year increased the number of shoots, which 
bore fruit to the tips. The present season it is a most vigorous 



41 

plant, or hill of i^lants, one of the canes measuring fourteen feet 
and bearing large raspberries in their different stages of growth, 
in great profusion, along its whole length. This cane was unpro- 
tected throughout the last severe winter, and this is sufficient 
attestation of its hardiness. The wood bears all the appearance 
of the true raspberry, but is lighter in color than the Hudson 
River Antwerp. The berry has the beautiful color, and is the 
equal in size, of the Hudson River Antwerp ; slightly conical ; 
not quite so rich, to our taste, as the Antwerp ; and hard enough 
when fully ripe, to bear carriage well. Mr. E. P. Roe, of Corn- 
wall, we understand, will propagate and have charge of the plant 
which gives promise of such great usefulness." 

I picked a basket of the fruit on a Friday afternoon, when it 
was somewhat damp from a shower in the morning, and not in 
the best condition to be tested, but after a ride of three miles the 
berries were in a fair state of preservation on Tuesday of the 
week following. I thmk it will be firm enough even for long- 
carriage to market, and yet this question must be decided by 
further experience on a larger scale. It is much firmer than the 
Herstine and a larger berry. Chas. Downing has seen the plants 
in bearing, and considers the seedling one of fine promise, but 
with his proverbial caution and wide experience which make his 
opinions so valuable, says that it needs more testing under varied 
circumstances. 

I am well aware myself that, like scores of others, it may 
disappoint all hopes. It takes kindly to" its new home upon my 
Cornw^all place. In the fall of '74 I removed some plants, and 
upon one left a cane several feet in length. It stood all through 
that bitter winter without protection, and the summer following, 
was loaded with the largest raspberries upon my place. I shall 
report upon it from time to time, stating its faults as well as good 
qualities. It is a week later than the Hudson River Antwerp, 
which, I think, is a good feature, as it thus follows early varieties 
and prolongs the season. 

Two or three years ago it was thought that we had found in 
the Herstine, tiie coming r.ispberry, but while it is large, luscious, 



42 

and excellent for home use, I think it will be found much too 
soft for market. And this is the objection against many kinds 
otherwise good. 

There are three varieties of red raspberries, however, that are 
widely coming into favor for market purposes. 

I will name first the Brandywine or Susqueco, which is a very 
firm, bright scarlet berry, medium in size, or quite large with 
good culture. It is a rampant grower and suckers rapidly, 
though I have never seen it attaining much height. It is said to 
be perfectly hardy even in the latitude of Canada ; and at the 
same time to endure the heat and drouth of the south better 
than even the blackcap varieties. Indeed it is a native of the 
south, having been found growing wild on the banks of the 
Brandywine, and the Indian name of this stream, Susqueco, was 
first given to it. It should be known by this appellation only, as 
" brandy-wine," in our day is too suggestive of chemicals and 
drugs. I find that in New York city both commission men and 
dealers on Broadway are very decided in its praise as a market 
berry, saying that it is the only one firm enough to be shipped 
to a distance. 

The next berry in value is the Highland Hardy, or Native. 
As the Antwerp declined in productiveness and vigor, this variety 
took its place, and is now grown very largely along the Hudson 
River. It is indeed very hardy and vigorous. I have never 
known it to be injured by the winters that were severe upon 
what were considered hardy kinds. It is also the earliest red rasp- 
berry with which I am acquainted, and a most abundant bearer. 
The berries are small to medium, and carry well to market. 
Some of its growers in Ulster Co., N. Y., are making large profits 
per acre. While it is much inferior to the foreign varieties, it is 
infinitely better than no raspberries at all, and from the way it 
behaves with me, I should judge that it could be raised where 
anything will grow. 

The most vigorous and productive foreign variety that I have 
seen, is the Franconia, a large, roundish-conical, firm, delicious 
berry that remains long in bearing. I have continued picking 



43 

from my canes five successive weeks. It requires winter pro- 
tection and well pays for the trouble. Where this variety suc- 
ceeds, it may be planted largely with confidence, as the fruit is 
first-class for home use or market. 

The amateur will scarcely ask for anything better than 
Brinckle's Orange, where it can be grown. 

We all know about the old fashioned blackcaps which we 
delighted to gather in childhood ; and in moist, rich spots I have 
seen wild bushes clambering over a fence that produced as large 
fruit as any of the vaunted kinds sent out from nurseries with 
great parade. At least they seem so to me now, seen through 
quite a long vista of years. I know however tliat this kind of 
distance increases rather than diminishes the objects of our early 
wonderment. 

The leading variety of this class is unfortunately named 
" Doolittle," which however has done so much that it ranks first 
in vigor and productiveness, and is the favorite for market. 
Next in value comes the considerably larger and later berry — 
the McCormickor Mammoth Cluster. With these two kinds one 
might be quite content. But there are others, and also new 
claimants, that are well worth a trial. 

At the close of this chapter will be found a fuller list of those 
that are now somewhat prominently before the public. 

Soil and Situation. 

The red raspberries, especially the choicer kinds, prefer a 
rich moist loam, and will do well even upon quite a stiff, cold clay, 
if it is not wet. In every case there must be thorough drainage. 
Upon light, dry, sandy soil, the large foreign varieties cannot be 
raised profitably except quite far to the north, and in the south 
they can scarcely be grown at all, under any circumstances. 
But the vigorous native red raspberries, like the Susqueco and 
Highland Hardy, or the blackcap famil}^, will flourish almost 
anywhere, north or south. Still, if one has a deep, rich, moist 
field or garden plot, there can be grown premium crops. Kasp- 



44 

berries are not so impatient of shade as the strawberry, and may- 
be profitably raised in a pear, or young apple orchard, as their 
cultivation will help the trees. 

The season can be greatly prolonged by planting early kinds 
on the south, and late varieties on the north side of a wall or 
piece of woods. 

Preparation of the Soil, Fertilizers, etc. 

What I have written under this head in the chapter upon 
strawberries applies, with modifications, to all the small fruits. 
Thorough preparation is the foundation of all certain success. 
As the white grub does not injure the raspberry, it is necessary 
to cultivate other crops before planting only long enough to 
thoroughly subdue the grass and weeds, and to deeply pulverize 
and enrich the land. Any good garden soil can be prepared for 
the plants at once. 

For the foreign varieties, as the Franconia, the Antwerps, etc., 
there is little danger of making the soil too rich. But ground 
that will produce a heavy crop of corn will also yield large crops 
of the hardy native and black raspberries. But in every case 
there must be deep cultivation, thorough cleaning of the land, and 
draining where there is any inclination to wetness. There is 
not a garden in the country in which some varieties of raspber- 
ries will not thrive. 

As a fertilizer, there is scarcely anything better than barn- 
yard manure composted with muck that has been sweetened by 
a winter's frost. The land should in all cases, if possible, be 
prepared by deep plowing in the fall, and the manure can be 
drawn directly from the stables and mixed thoroughly with the 
soil, as at this cool season its heating qualities are an advantage 
rather than an injury. If barnyard manure cannot be had, muck, 
sweetened by the action of frost and mixed with lime, or better 
still with ashes, is most excellent. 

In the treatment of different soils, light and heavy, the same 
principles apply here as in the case of strawberries. Close up 



45 

and deepen light and porous land with muck composts, rotted 
leaves and sods, and use light and heating manures for cold, 
heavy ground. 

Bone-dust, poudrette, etc., composted with muck, sods and 
leaves, make excellent manures in every case. Top dressings of 
wood ashes are always good, but never fail to give the land deep 
plowing, or, in the garden, trenching, as this prevents loss from 
drouth. 

Plants and Planting. 

In stocking a new place, or in obtaining new varieties, plants 
must be bought, and, as we have said before, it is always best to 
purchase of trustw^orthy dealers. Most kinds propagate them- 
selves rapidly, and a little later w^e will show how this process 
can be hastened. In buying, insist upon being furnished with 
young and well rooted plants. 

Raspberries may be set out to advantage both in fall and 
spring. In our latitude and in most soils, I would prefer fall for 
the red raspberries which are propagated by suckers, and spring 
for the blackcap and purple cane varieties that are increased by 
roots forming at the tips of the canes. 

My plan with red raspberries has been to purchase or take 
up the plants and set them out in October or the first week in 
November, if mild. Where the variety is very choice, I have 
quite large holes dug to the depth of eighteen inches and the 
bottom filled up with good surface soil. But in gardens and 
where the ground has been deeply prepared, this is not necessary. 
If I intend to cultivate them with horse power both ways, I mark 
out the ground into squares of four feet and put two or three 
plants at each corner, setting them in the ground one inch deeper 
than they were before. At this distance and where two plants are 
set in a hill, 5,444 are required for an acre. After I have fin- 
ished planting, the ground is perfectly level, and in after culture 
should be kept so. I then sprinkle over and around the hill a 
shovel full or two of old rotted compost, which, leaching down 



46 

with the fiill and spring rains, gives the young plants a fine start. 
I next cut off the tops or canes a little above the ground, and 
mound the earth entirely over them as Avinter protection. The 
frost cannot injure them, and the work of planting is done when 
usuall}^ we have the leisure to do it well. Early in spring, as 
soon as the hard frosts are past, remove the mounds from over 
the hills and leave the ground level. 

Do not let long tops remain on the plants with the view of 
getting fruit the first year. Where this is done the usual result 
is few and poor berries the first year, and scarcely any at all the 
next. All the plants can do the first season is to establish 
themselves and send up canes for the next year's fruiting. Even 
where berries are desired at once, one or two buds left on the 
shortened canes just above the ground will produce more and 
better fruit than if the same canes had been left three feet high. 
I should judge that fall planting would be still more advantageous 
south of New York, but they will need the same protection, as 
there is more freezing and thawing where there is but little snow. 

But in many localities, and especially to the north, spring 
planting answers equally well, if not better. But let it be done 
as early as possible, or else the little buds just above the roots, 
which make the canes for future bearing, will start to grow and 
thus be broken off in setting. The ground should be thoroughly 
prepared by deep fall plowing, and again plowed and harrowed 
in the spring. If all the preparation has been left till spring, let 
it be very thorough. Nothing is gained by haste and slighting. 
Do not plant when the ground is wet and sticky, unless it be just 
as a good rain is commencing. Press the soil down quite firmly 
around the plants, after filling the holes. Do not at any time, put 
manure in the hills so that it will come in contact with the roots. 
Spread it on top of the ground over them, and the rains will take it 
where it is wanted. Many a tree and plant is injured, if not killed, 
by placing green, strong manure directly upon the roots. But a 
top-dressing of manure of any kind is of great value to the young 
plants, both in fall or spring setting, as it gives them a good 
strong start at once. Old rotted compost has the best effect, and 



47 

wood-ashes are also excellent. Plants may filso be set out during 
the summer, as will be explained under the head of propagating. 
In our latitude, and to the north, the blackcap raspberries do 
better when set out in the spring. To the south, and in warm, 
light land, they thrive equally well after fall planting. These 
should be put five feet apart each way, as they are very strong 
growers. At this distance 1,742 will be required for an acre. 
While deep plowing and clean culture are as beneficial to these as 
to the red varieties, they do not require as rich a soil. Set them 
down so that the little bud which makes the new growth is one 
inch beneath the surface in heavy soil, and two inches in light soil. 
Cut off all the old cane. 

Propagatior\. 

The first effort of the young raspberry plant, after transplant- 
ing, is to become established, and next to propagate itself. About 
all it can do the first season is to take a good root hold upon the 
soil, and throw up one or two shoots or canes. But the second 
season the roots of all the red raspberries (except the purple cane 
family) which have been spreading laterally through the soil, 
show a tendency to throw up new shoots which are termed suck- 
ers. With some varieties this disposition is so strong that these 
suckers will fill up all the spaces between the rows, and choke 
the bearing hills. For most practical purposes the red raspberries 
will propagate themselves fast enough in this way, and unless 
new plants are needed, the suckers must be treated as weeds and 
all cut out with the hoe, save four or five in the hills. 

But some varieties do not sucker readily, and in introducing 
new varieties it is often profitable to hasten nature's usual pro- 
cedure. In doing this there is scarcely a limit to the results 
of skill and good management. The practised gardener who has 
glass forcing-houses, can take the smallest roots of a scarce 
variety and cut them into half-inch pieces, and from each one 
make a new plant. Then as they begin to grow he can take the 
new green wood of the little plants, and cut this into small pieces 



48 

which, in .sanrl, nnrl the worm hnniifl nir of the propajrating house, 
speedily set up an independent existence. Thus from one plant 
thousands can soon be grown. 

But even if we have no glass we can accomplish a good deal 
with root cuttings. Take up the plants that you wish to increase 
very carefully in the fall, following each root so as to get it all. 
Leave enough on the plants to start them well the next season, 
and then they may be set out again as before directed. Take the 
roots you have cut off and divide them into pieces three inches in 
length. Prepare a box by boring holes in the bottom so as to 
give good drainage. Put a layer of leaves over these to prevent 
the soil from sifting out, then a thin layer of fine moist earth. 
Upon this place a layer of the roots, next earth, then roots again 
till the box is nearly full. There should be two inches or more 
of earth over the top layer of roots. The box can then be buried 
upon a dry knoll beneath the action of frost ; or it can be placed 
in a cool cellar where the roots will not freeze and where they 
can be kept moist, but not tvet. In spring, as soon as the ground 
is dry and warm enough to work, the roots can be set out in rich, 
finely prepared soil. Set them slanting a little and in drills, 
four inches apart in the row and one inch deep. In light, porous 
land they can be put down two inches. A top-dressing of fine 
rotted manure will greatly stimulate the little cuttings. They 
should be covered about an inch deep with a mulch of straw or 
dead grass and, if kept moist by occasional waterings, nearly all 
will develop into good strong plants. 

There is often advantage in summer planting which may 
easily be done at any time from June till August, if the plants are 
upon your own place. Have the ground which you wish for rasp- 
berries thoroughly prepared and ready early in June. Take up 
the young suckers that are from six inches to a foot high with a 
large ball of earth around the roots and put two in a hill. If 
this is done upon a rainy or cloudy day they go right on grow- 
ing and make strong canes by fall. Thus a year in time is saved 
as these may be permitted to bear a partial crop the following 
season. 



49 

The blackc'ip varieties do not throw up suckers but are propa- 
gated by their tips taking root. This they will do to large 
extent themselves if not in an exposed position where they are 
whipped about by the wind. When new plants are desired it is 
best to layer the tips by covering them with two or three inches 
of earth. This is done with a garden trowel, and in our latitude, 
in August and September. The time to do it in every locality is 
indicated by the tips of the bushes swelling and turning purple. 
They will then readily take root if covered with a little soil. As 
new branches grow, bend over and touch the ground, many more 
tips will be ready to take root. If a large number of plants are 
wanted it will pay to go over them often in September and Octo- 
ber, covering the ends. I have found it more satisfactory to 
leave these young plants in the ground till spring; but as has 
been stated before, they can be taken up and set out in the fall if 
desired. But in most localities the frost will throw them out if 
not protected b}^ mounding the earth slightly over them and then 
uncovering early in spring. The bushes may be trimmed in win- 
ter if more convenient, as it does not hurt the young plants to be 
separated from the parent at this season. 

Culture for Fruit. 

In the garden where the plow will not be used, the plants 
m;iy be set out three feet apart each way. If planted in the fall 
cover with earth as before directed. As early in the spring as 
the ground is fit to work, uncover and fork the ground deeply 
between the rows. I would recommend that the spaces between 
the hills be covered at once while the soil is loose and moist, 
with a heavy mulch of leaves, rakings of the lawn, or any coarse 
litter that will keep the surface damp and the weeds from grow- 
ing. By fall the plants will have sent up new canes on which 
will be borne the fruit the coming senson. In October the mulch 
can be dug under, and thus the soil is kept rich. About the 1st 
of November shorten in th(i young c;ines from one-third to one- 
half, and you will get more and better fruit and the plants will 



50 

be strcngthenod. If ;i cnne is six feet high I would reduce it to 
four feet. If a cane is but three feet in height I would not leave 
more than eighteen inches to bear the next season ; small canes 
show a lack of vigor which must be iiu:reasod by pruning. If 
there are side branches, I would cut oft two-thirds of their 
length. This is one of the cases in which we suffer loss through 
our avarice, and usually it takes years of experience to teach 
one to prune his raspberries and grapevines with sufficient rigor. 
1 was once taught a very useful lesson in this respect. I had 
some raspberries which were called hardy. They were up to 
the point where the snow covered them — about two feet that 
winter, but the tops were killed. From those canes, but two 
feet higi), we picked more and better fruit than from a row five 
feet in height that had been covered. Where the ground is 
rich and the canes vigorous I think that three and a half to four 
feet is a good height. Early in November or just before freezing- 
weather, bend down and cover with earth all the foreign and 
lialf-hardy kinds. The best way to do this is to let a man throw 
a spade full of earth up against the hills on one side. Then 
let a, boy bend the canes (all in one direction) gently down 
over these little mounds, which prevent their breaking by 
making too sharp ;in angle, while a man covers them with earth. 
The work can be done far more rapidly, by two men — one work- 
ing on each side of the row, and by this method a great many 
plants can be covered in a day. It is best to cover them well, 
so that the rains will noi wash the soil away and uncover 
the canes. Early in spring after the heavy frosts are past, first 
remove the earth on each side of the plants and then raise them 
by placing a fork carefully under the ends and lifting them gently. 

Early in spring place stakes by the side of the hills with a. 
crow-bar and tie up the canes at once, using soft but strong- 
twine. Tie up the ends of the canes snugly as well as lower 
down, otherwise they break with the wind or their burden of 
fruit. 

Next loosen the ground thoroughly between the rows with a 
fork, digging in a dressing of manure, and then muhdi as before. 



51 

The tops of the rns|)berries are biennial, the roots perennial. 
The canes (hat ^vt're covered during the winter will bear the 
fruit and then begin to die. As soon as they are thruogh bear- 
ing they should be cut out close to the ground, and carried away. 
In (he meantime, the roots have sent up new canes wliirh will 
bear the following season. In October the mulch can asiaiii be 
dug under, and the canes buried in earth just before (he ground 
freezes. This method can be kept up a long time. Plantations 
of raspberries have remained productive for twenty ^^ears, but 
usually they begin to fail after ten or twelve. The3' should then 
be dug out and plantings made upon new ground, and three or 
more years elapse before returning them to the same s[)ot. 

From three to five canes are enough to leave in a hill. The 
number depends upon the vigor and branching habit of the variety. 

If one does not like the method of cultivation by mulching, 
he can keep the soil clean and mellow by the frequent use of the 
hoe. 1 prefer a long blunt-pointed one that goes deeply into the 
ground without cutting the roots. But I think that in garden 
culture the mulching is of great advantage, not only in keeping 
the ground moist, mellow and rich, but in preserAmig the fruit 
from being splashed with mud by the heavy showers often pre- 
valent at the time of ripening. I have seen many quarts spoiled 
from this cause. 

Where the hardy varieties are raised, the treatment may be 
the same, with the exception of winter covering, which is no( 
needed. If the blackcap varieties are cultivated in the garden, 
the plants may be set three feet apart in a single row. Twenty 
plants of the Doolittle, and the same number of Mammoth Clus- 
ter will abundantly supply a large family. If the latter can be 
placed in a cool moist place on the north side of a wall, the sea- 
son of fruit will be greatly prolonged. 



52 



Field Culture. 

After thoroiiiih preparation the plants of red raspberries 
may be set out in spring or autumn four feet apa,rt each way, 
covering them on the approach of winter as before directed, if not 
hardy, and uncovering early in spring. We are now getting such 
good varieties of hardy kinds that it scarcely pays to plant the 
tender ones on a large scale, except in localities especially suited to 
them. As soon as plants are set out throw one or two shovelsful 
of rich compost over and around them. Keep the plow, cultivator 
and hoe at w^ork, so that the ground is always loose and clean. If 
tender, cover just before freezing weather. This can be done rapid- 
ly by letting a boy bend them over, while a man fastens them 
down by a shovelful of earth. Then, wdth a plow- throw a furrow 
over them upon each side, and go over them again with a shovel, 
to make snre that all are well covered. The hardy kinds will 
need no protection, although a shovelful of fine compost, thrown 
over the roots in the fall, will give them a strong start in the 
spring. Cut out the old canes as soon as you are through pick- 
ing, as these are now' worse than useless, and will absorb much 
of the root power in their slow decay, which should go into the 
new shoots. Put stakes of five feet in the hills the second year, 
and tie up the canes before the buds swell. As soon as the crop 
is gathered the stakes can be taken up and stored under cover. 
Chestnut wood makes the best stakes, and if the part that goes 
into the ground is charred ;i little wath fire, they will last much 
longer. Stakes split out of heavy wood are more durable than 
round poles. 

I do not believe in the method of dispensing with stakes. 
The bushes are often broken down by the wind or weight of ber- 
ries, and muddy fruit gets into the basket and spoils the sale of 
the entire crop, giving the grower's brand a bad character in the 
market. 

Unless new plants are wanted for use or sale, treat the suck- 
ers as weeds, leaving but from four to six in a hill, according to 



53 

the vigor of the variety. Where many suckers are grown, the 
best results in fruit cannot be obtained. 

When a plantation begins to fail, higher manuring will rein- 
vigorate it. Wood-ashes and muck are excellent stimulants. 
Mulching even on a large scale, where leaves or marsh hay is 
abundant, will often pay well, and help the plants greatly. Fields 
can also be renewed by letting suckers stand between the rows, 
and digging out the old plants. But after a time it will become 
evident that the land is exhausted of raspberry food and new 
plantings should be made elsewhere. 

If blackcaps are to be plowed both ways, the stools should be 
five feet apart, but if the cultivator is to run only one way, let 
the rows be six feet a[)art, and the plants three feet in the row. 
If black raspberries are planted six feet by three, *2,400 will be 
required for an acre ; if six by four feet, 1,742. 

Varieties. 

In the following partial list I have merely named those that 
are now more or less in favor. 

Hudson Eiver Antwerp.— Heretofore the great market berry 
upon the west side of the North river. It is very large, firm, 
somewhat dr^-, musky in flavor, early, and continues long in 
bearing. Where it can be grown it is the best of the foreign 
vai-ieties. It has declined in vigor greatly for several years, suf- 
fering much from mildew, and general debility, not ripening its 
wood. It is therefore being superceded by other kinds in its old 
haunts, especially by the Highland Hardy. But I think it can 
still be grown profitably on new, rich, moist, but well drained 
soil. It once yielded enormous crops and brought its growers a 
great deal of money. It must be well covered with earth before 
severe frosts. 

FranCOnia. — Perhaps the best and hardiest of the foreign 
varieties, but requiring winter protection. The berry is large, 
roundish, of good flavor and firm enough for market. It con- 



54 

tinuos long in bearinp', and where it tlirives is very {troductive. 
Like .'ill the foreign varieties it requires high cullure. 

Belle de Fontenay. — Some assert th.-itthis variety jind the 
Amazon are identical. A large berr}' hut not very fii-m, deep 
crimson, iriegular, long-conical, and of good flavor. The canes 
are very strong and stocky, the 3'oung shoots producing a second 
crop in autumn. It is the best of the fall-bearing varieties. It 
throws up an endless number of suckers, which must be cut off as 
soon as they appear, if much fruit is desired. By cutting off the 
canes even with the ground in spring, the new shoots will pro- 
duce quite a large crop in the autumn. 

Belle de Palluail. — a bright crimson, large, obtuse-conical 
berry, of good flavor, firm and productive. I should think it 
might become one of the best of the foreign kinds for market. 

Horneti — Very large and fine, but very uncertain in most 
localities. 

Brinckle's Orange.— The amateur's variety. Orange in color, 
large, obtuse-conical, and of delicious flavor. The canes are 
strong and the plant very vigorous and productive. 

AH the above varieties need careful winter ])rotection and 
high culture. 

Clark. — This variety is almost hardy, though its tops have 
been killed in my garden. If held down by a shovelful of 
earth, it will endure almost anv' winter. The fruit is large, 
especially if the canes are cut back rigorousl}^, and of a 
sweet, rich flavor. It is too soft for market, but excellent for 
home use. 

PMladelpMa,— This is another variety that needs but little 
protection, if any, and where quantity rather than quality is 
desired, is one of the best to plant, as it is the greatest bearer I 
have seen. But the fruit is dark, soft, and of poor flavor. 

Herstinei — A large, beautiful, fine-flavored berry, excellent 
for home use, but too soft for distant markets. It is productive 
and a very strong grower, doing well even on poor soil. 



55 

SaUnderSi — it resembles the Herstine but is usually not so 

productive. 

Turner. — A favorite variety at the West. Medium to large, 
quite prolific, moderately firm, and ripens its crop early. It is 
said to be hardy. 

Highland Hardy.— The earliest raspberry and very valuable 
on this account as well as for other reasons. It is very produc- 
tive, perfectly hardy and thrives on almost any soil. The fruit 
is medium in size but improves greatly under high culture and 
rigorous pruning. It is fast becoming one of the chief market 
berries. 

Brandjrwine or SusqueCO.— This is probably the best of 
the red raspberries for field culture and has already been quite 
fully described. 

Blackcap Varieties. 
Doolittle or American Improved.— Large, juicy, if well 

pruned nnd grow^n on good moist land, very vigorous and enor- 
mously productive. It is the best for the general crop. 

McOormick or Mammoth Cluster.— Very large and a week 
or ten days later than the above, a yery strong grower niid 
exceedingly productive. One of the best. 

Miami. — Resembling the Mammoth Cluster but not equ.d to 
it in value. It is brighter colored and may therefore fare better 
in market. 

Davison's ThornleSS. — The earliest blackcap that I have seen, 
and almost free of sharp spines. It is of value for the garden, 
but not sufficiently vigorous and productive for field culture. 

Fay's ThornleSS. — Said to be better than the Davison. 

The Ohio Ever-hearing. — Large and of good flavor; a strong 
grower, the young canes producing a moderate crop in autumn. 

Early Cluster and Ontario.— New and i)romising seedlings. 



5() 

GanargUa. — A hybrifl between the red raspberry and black- 
cap, and is said to be hardy, early and productive. The berry is 
large, firm and fine flavored, but its color will prevent its becom- 
ing a favorite in the market, as it is neither red nor black. It is 
a strong grower, and is propagated from the tips. 

NorWOodi — A new variety that is highly spoken of in some 
quarters, and slightingly in others. 

There are new varieties of great promise which must be tested 
still further before any correct opinion can be formed concerning 
their merits. First among these I place my seedling. 

The Pride of the Hudson. 

But pride often has a fidl, and my promising berry may soon 
pass out of notice. It certainly shall if it does not prove worthy 
of its name, for never shall I consciously commend a poor fruit ; 
and if it be my own, I shall be still more critical. The Cuthbert 
and Delaware raspberries have been spoken of very highly, and 
I hope to be able to report upon them and others from time to 
time. 

If one wishes to raise new varieties, let him select the finest 
berries when fully ripe and mash them in dr}^ sand till all moist- 
ure is absorbed. Sow the seed in the fall about one-fourth of 
an inch deep, and sift over them some finely pulverized muck, 
the greater part of which should be raked off again early in spring. 
What the seeds require is slight covering of very fine, light soil 
which must be kept moist and at the same time have no tendency 
to bake or become hard. They will then germinate early in 
spring. Protect the young plants the following winter and set 
each one out singly the following spring ; number them, and in 
about three years from the time of sowing you can learn the 
value of the new varieties. The subject of picking, marketing, 
etc., will be treated hereafter. 



C U R R A N T S . 




HE culture of the currant is becoming increasingly profitable 
every year. The briefness of this chapter does not indi- 
cate my estimate of the v;ihie of this fruit, but its cultiva- 
tion is so simple that but few words of direction are neces- 
sary. A deep rich soil, clean culture, mulch, and the pruning 
knife are the secrets of success. Straggling currant bushes 
along old fences and half-smothered by grass and weeds are not 
the models to be recommended. It is pretty hard to kill a cur- 
rant bush, but only by the following methods can paying crops be 
raised in the garden or field. 

A moist, heavy soil is the best, but high manuring and mulch- 
ing will make any answer. It is difficult to enrich the soil too 
highly as the currant is a gross feeder and not particular as to 
quality. Wood-ashes however are specially excellent. Deep 
plowing in preparation, clean culture and mulching, will go a great 
way toward making up for lack of fertilizers. 

Set the plants of the white and red kinds four feet apart 
each way and keep them in shape and bounds by pruning. At 
this distance 2,722 will be required for an acre. During the 
first two years let the spaces between them be kept clean and 
mellow by the frequent use of the plow and cultivator, keeping 
the ground level. The third year a paying crop may be ex- 
pected. Let the ground be thoroughly cultivated and cleaned 
as early as possible in spring, working in a heavy top-dress- 
ing of compost or any manure that can be had. If a mulch of 
leaves or any kind of litter can be put on at once while the 



58 

ground is fresh and moist all the better. But if such material is 
not at hand, .liive the ground in the garden a thorough hoeing or 
light forking early in June, and then scatter over it, between 
tlie bushes, a, mowing of coarse weedy grass that is not fit for 
hay. Where currants are grown largely I believe it would pay 
to raise orchard grass for the purpose of mulching. This starts 
early and a heavy burden can be mowed even in May. Mulch, 
by keeping the ground moist, largely increases the weight of the 
crop. In the South and upon light soils it is indispensable to 
any profitable success. Moreover, where it is not used the fruit 
is generally badly splashed with mud, and only clean handsome 
fruit brings paying prices. 

As any part of the wood becomes old and unproductive cut it 
out. Keep the bushes thinned, strong and vigorous. Six or 
eight stocky shoots will produce more and better fruit than a 
much larger bus'i full of thick tangled branches and old wood 
through which air and light cannot circulate. Cut out in spring 
all the young suckers except what are needed for the renewal 
of the plants. Bushes usually become unproductive through 
over-crowding of young and old wood, till at last there is little 
else save wood and leaves. Strong and long shoots of new 
wood should be shortened in the fall or early spring, and this 
young growth em[)loyed in producing new plants. 

Propagation. 

The currant can easily be increased by cuttings. The best 
time to make these is the last of September, or as soon as the 
wood is ripened. Take only the young growth of that season, cut 
the shoots into lengths of six inches, strip oil' the leaves at once, 
if they have not already fallen, set the slips out in rich, moist, 
but well-drained land. Sink them down so that only three buds 
are left above the surface. Let them be in rows two feet apart 
and six inches in the row. Top-dress witli fine old manure, if 
possible. By winter they will be quite well rooted, and in the 
following season will make a ver}' strong growth. When two 



59 

yenrs nld ihoy will be fit for s;ilo or home planting-, while many 
one year plants are sold, and if viiiorous are just as <iOod, if not 
belter. Where a market can be found, the raising of young plants 
is a I'rofitable business. 

While the best results are secured from early fall cuttings, 
they can bi' made any time before winter and placed in the ground 
as directed above. I have found it advantageous to mound the 
earth over them, covering them completely, and then uncovering 
early in the spring. This prevents the frost from throwing 
them out. If it is not convenient to set out the cuttings in the 
fall, they can be tied in bundles and buried in the open ground 
just beneath the action of frost. Put them out in rows as early 
as possible in the spring. Cuttings can be made any time du- 
ring the winter and buried in a cool cellar, keeping them barely 
moist enough to prevent their drying out. Or they may be taken 
from the bushes early in spring, and if set out in moist land, will 
generally live, but do not make as good a growth as those planted 
early in the fall. 

The old fashioned way of layering or bending down branches 
in spring, and throwing earth upon them here and there never 
fails, but the plants are not as nice as those produced by 



cuttings. 



Enemies. 

The currant has two enemies which in some seasons and local- 
ities, if not interfered with, are very destructive. The more 
formidable one is known as the cunant worm. It is about an 
inch long, bright yellow, and dotted with small black spots. 
These worms are very voracious and will strip the bushes of foli- 
age before one is aware of their presence, if not on the watch for 
them. The remedy is a thorough dusting of wh/te hellebore 
upon the leaves when they are wet with dew ; or better still, put 
two ounces of white hellebore into a pail, and pour upon the powder 
a quart of boiling water. After it has stood a few moments fill 
up the pail with cold water, and apply it to the bushes with a 



60 

syringe. The liquid kills every worm it touches. Applications 
should be continued while any of the pests remain, and if 
attacked in time they can soon be destroyed. 

The other enemy is a worm called the currant borer, and its 
jDresence is known by the wood shriveling, or the foliage turning 
yellow. Cut off the infested branches close to the ground, and 
burn them. If currants are grown in bush form, which is the 
better way, they can seldom destroy a plant, but when the 
plants are pruned into miniature trees with a single stem, the 
borer is often fatal to them. 

'The same general principles apply to the culture of black cur- 
rants, only bearing in mind that being larger and coarser in their 
growth, they require more room, and need less j)runing. 

Varieties. 

There are but comparatively few kinds of currants worth 
cultivating, except as the amateur amuses himself wit'n. variety. 
I shall merely name those which are best, and which furnish all 
the qualities desirable for home use and market. 

Old Bed Dutch, — Too well known to need description. 
But if those people who leave their bushes to fight with grass 
anil burdocks, and to fruit upon the same wood fur generations, 
should haj)pen to see this old fi'iend enjoying good cultivation 
and rigorous pruning, they would declare that it was a new and 
choice variety. I have been told of instances where the common 
Red Dutch was sold in market for Cherry currants. There is 
scarcely a fruit which high cultivation improves more, and it is 
an open question wliether it is not the most profitable kind to 
]"aise, since, from its enormous bearing qualities, what is lost in 
size and showiness is made up in weight, I find that many are 
inclined to think that if it received as good treatment as Cherry 
and Versailles, it would be equally profitable. It is also one of 
the sweetest and best flavored when fully ripe. 

Cherry,— The largest and most showy of the red currants, 



61 

and the great market variety. It is acid and not first quality in 
flavor, but its beauty and size make it the favorite for market. 
The bunches are very variable, some being small, and consisting 
of only two or three berries, others quite long and large, bur not 
tapering like other kinds. It is a coarse grower and gross feeder, 
requiring rich soil and high cultivation. The young shoots are 
very strong and stocky. The bushes need a great deal of judi- 
cious pruning, for the old wood has a tendency to become naked 
and barren. But in most localities it is one of- the most profitable 
crops that can be raised. 

Versailles, — if this is a distinct variety, it resembles the 
Cherry so closely that it is difficult to tell them apart. It is 
claimed that it is not so acid, and that the bunches are longer 
and more tapering. Even so high an authority as A. S. Fuller 
writes : 

" Although I am not ready to say positively that there is no 
distinct variety to which the name Versailles belongs, still I have 
not yet been able to obtain one in wdiich really distinct and per- 
manent variations can be discovered. I shall be most happy to 
receive any information from other growers which shall enable 
me to decide this very perplexing question.'" Mr. Downing says 
that the difference consists in some of the bunches of the Ver- 
sailles — not all of them — being longer and more tapering than 
those of the Cherry. 

I have made two large plantings from stock that onnio origi- 
nally from Charles Downing's place, and which I know to be mire, 
and shall carefully observe all diflerences. But those purchasing 
the Versailles with the expectation of getting something very 
different and much better than the Cherry should be undeceived. 

Victoria. — This iy a valuable late variety, large and of bright 
red color ; acid, but of good, sprightly flavor. The bunches are 
very long, and the plant moderately vigorous and exceedingly 
productive. 

White Grape. — The best of the white currants, large, trans- 



62 

parent, very beautiful. It is sweet and juicy, and of excellent 
flavor. The plant is quite vigorous and very productive. 

White Dutch.— It resembles the Red Dutch, with the excep- 
tion of color. It is claimed that the berries are larger and sweeter 
and the bunches a little shorter. The plant is very vigorous. 

Black Naples. — Very large, black and of a sweet musky 
flavor; a strong grower and productive after the bushes have 
attained some size and aii'e. 

There seems to be an increasing: demand for black currants, 
but white varieties find but a limited sale, though the best. For 
home use the latter should always be cultivated. 

Buist's Long-Bunched Red, and Fertile de Palluau might be 
added to the list, but for all practical purposes the above described 
varieties are sufficient. 



G O S K V> E R R I E S . 




IIE treatnient and propagation of the gooseberry is almost 
the same as that of the currant. Success depends upon 
deep and thorough preparation of the soil, abundance of 
fertilizers, and rigorous pruning. Unless the plants are 
kept growing vigorously the fruit soon deteriorates and mildew 
is more likely to ensue. Cool northern exposures and deep, 
moist soils should be selected when possible. 

Cuttings can be made in the fall, but succeed equally well, if 
not better, when made early in spring, as the wood of the goose- 
berry is slower in ripening than the currant. When the plants 
are large enough to set out, put them four feet apart each way. 
They can be pruned to a single stem if desired, as the borer does 
not often disturb them. But I prefer the bush form, as it gives 
more opportunity for renewal with young wood. As the bushes 
grow in size keep them thin and open so as to admit an abundance 
of air and light. As the wood becomes old and unproductive, 
cut it out. 

The gooseberry, even more than the currant, is impatient of 
weeds and slovenly culture. Hardness and dryness of soil is 
especially injurious., and therefore mulching is of very great 
advantage. 

If the currant w^orm appears on the foliage it should be 
destroyed with hellebore as 1 have already directed. 

Mildew is the great foe of the gooseberry in this country, 
and often attacks not only the fruit but the plant. There is no 
certain remedy, and it is best to pkant only those varieties which 
are seldom or never affected by this scourge, if there are any 



G4 

such favored kinds. T have been told that even the Houp:hton 
mihlews in some localities in some seasons. Still in most instan- 
ces our hardv, native varieties are free from rust, if gTown on 
moist, rich, well cultivated land and well pruned. Sometimes a 
syreat many young suckers will start in spring which should be 
cut out. The regular pruning can be done an}^ time after the 
leaves fall and before the buds start in spring. Except for an 
amateur's experiments, the large foreign varieties are too uncer- 
tain for our climate. 



Varieties, 

Houghton's Seedling — Has been the principal variety 
grown of late years botii for garden and tield culture, and many 
barrels are sent annually to New York market. The fruit is 
small, almost round, pale red when ripe, sweet, tender and of good 
flavor. It is readily propagated by cuttings, like the currant. 
The plants are very hardy and vigorous, and as they grow large, 
have a spreading, drooping tendency. It is exceedingly produc- 
tive, and rarely mildews. 

This variety is rapidly being superceded by the — 

Downing. — A larger and better berry, oval, greenish-white 
and of excellent flavor. The plant is a strong upright grower, 
and very productive. It is no doubt the best gooseberry thus far 
introduced. This variety is said not to grow as readily from cut- 
tings as is the case with most kinds. For home planting it can 
be increased by layering, or bending branches down in spring 
and covering part of them with earth. By fall these branches 
will be well-rooted and can be set out elsewhere. 

Mountain Seedling,— Larger than either of the two first 
named but not equal in quality. 

Smith's Improved.— A strong grower. Berry large, light 
green, oval, but not equal to the Downing. 



65 



Roe's Seedling. 

(Named for T. Hazard Roe, upon whose place it originated.) 
This is by fnr the Inrgest and finest gooseberry that I have 
ever seen, and if it continues free from mildew and flourishes else- 
where as in its original home, it cannot fail to supercede all others. 
Last year, on account of the severe and early drouth, they 
were not up to their usual size, but during their fruiting season 
I cut a number of branches laden with berries and took them to 
New York. Prominent commission men to whom I showed them 
said that they would bring almost double the price of any in mar- 
ket. I next took them to Prof. Thurber, editor of the American 
Agriculturist. 

I saw at once that he was impressed. After examining them 
he remarked with some emphasis : 

" That's considerable of a gooseberry, young man.'' 
He at once sent for his engraver and directed that the draw- 
ing should be made which appeared in November number of the 
American AgricuUurid and is reproduced on the cover of tliis 
manual. He also requested me to furnish a history of the 
variety as far as I could learn it. Asa result the following state- 
ment, prepared by Dr. Thurber, accompanied the engraving in 
the Agriculturist : 

" Sometime last summer the Rev. E. P. Roe, of Cornwall-on- 
the-Hudson, brought us a specimen of a gooseberry, in which 
bush and fruit appeared to be perfectly healthy, and the fruit was 
much larger than any of our native sorts, abundant, and of a fine 
green color. Upon learning it was a new seedling, we had an 
engraving made of it, and requested Mr. Roe to give us its his- 
tory, which he has done substantially as follows : ' In 1826 Mr. 
William Roe purchased quite a large plot of ground in what was 
then the outskirts of the village of Newburgh, and stocked his 
place with the best fruits that he could then procure. That 
which was tlien a home in the country, is now a country-like 
home in the centre of a large city. Mr. T. Hazard Roe is the 



66 

present proprietor, and inheriting the taste of his father, has 
given hi? place a local reputation for its fine fruit for many 
years. Among the known varieties many seedlings were per- 
mitted to grow, and there are now natural pears, peaches, and 
apples on the place, that are very valuable, as well as a seedling 
raspberry that promises better than anything I have yet seen. 

"But the seedling gooseberry which I brought to your office 
is perhaps the fruit of the greatest promise. For many years I had 
been struck by the remarkable size and fairness of these goose- 
berries, and supposed that they were some very fine English 
variety that by some good fortune had not mildewed. Sometime 
ago I expressed my surprise to Mr. Roe that his gooseberries 
were so free from rust and then learned for the first time that 
they were a seedling variety, which originated on his place more 
than fifteen years ago, and that they never had mildewed. I at 
once concluded that if it could be made to do as well elsewhere, 
it would be a great advance upon any variety of this berry I had 
yet seen. The bush is a very strong grower, and perfectly hardy. 
The variety will be thoroughly tested in various soils and local- 
ities, and the best judges satisfied as to its character, before it is 
sent out. Thus far I have never seen a more abundant bearer, 
the fruit being large, green, and fine flavored when ripe." 

It is a chance seedling, and nothing is known concerning its 
parentage. 

I have found by experience that the plant is readily propagated 
by cuttings, and I have now quite a large number of young 
bushes raised in this way without extra care — no more than I 
have given to currant slips. Some young bushes have borne 
fruit on my Cornwall place, with no trace of mildew. I shall 
be able to test the variety very fully the coming season, and 
will accurately report the results whether favorable or the 
reverse. The plants will not be for sale before next fall, and 
perhaps not until the following year. 



THE BLACKBERRY. 



HERE is scarcely a more wholesome fruit than this, and 
yet the majority are depending upon a precarious supply 
from the woods, extemporized into a jam by the grimy 
hands of unknown pickers, wdien for six w^eeks together 
they might have abundance of large, luscious berries near their 
own doors. There is no fruit more easily raised. A Kitta- 
tinny blackberry bush will grow w^here a burdock would languish, 
and yet there are thousands of burdocks to one blackberry bush. 

Its culture is very simple. Select land that is not very moist 
or rich. I have succeeded Avell with it on high, gravelly knolls, 
but unless well mulched it is apt to suffer from drouth. Light, 
warm land, however, is preferable to that which is heav}'- and 
damp, for upon the latter-named soils there is too much growth 
of wood which does not ripen fully, and therefore is killed by the 
winter's cold. But deep plowing in preparation is always of 
advantage, as it gives the roots a wdde range, and prevents the 
plants from suffering from drouth. 

Fall is the best time for planting, but it does very w^ell when 
set in spring. I succeeded satisfactorily with Kittatinny plants 
put out late last spring, in spite of the severe drouth that fol- 
low^ed. Indeed, only utter neglect can prevent success with 
blackberries where they are not winter-killed. 

For field culture let the rows be eight feet apart, and the 
plants three feet distant in the rows. If the soil is poor and 
light, scatter a liberal dressing of muck compost, or any fertilizer 
that is not licatinu, down the furrow in which thcv arc to be 



68 

pLinted, and the roots will follow this and throw up suckers 
along the rows where they are wanted, instead of in the middle 
spaces. 

In garden culture six feet by four is a good distance at which 
to set the plants. There the soil is sufficiently rich, and only 
clean cultivation and rigorous pruning will be necessary. 

The only difficulties in the w^ay of blackberry culture, are 
the savage thorns, rampant growth, and liability to be killed by 
severe winters. The first two obstacles can be overcome by the 
frequent use of pruning-knife and hook. A little work at the 
right time saves a great deal of trouble. When a blackberry 
sucker first appears it is a very innocent and little affiiir, and a 
child can pull it up, but, like a bad habit, if left till fully devel- 
oped, is most formidable, and its removal requires heroic effort. 
One might almost as well attack a wild-cat as to cope with it 
bare-handed. When the shoots are young and tender, the hoe, 
knife, or sickle can easily keep them within bounds. Keep the 
rows down as far as j)ossible to a single line of plants standing 
one foot or eighteen inches from each other. As fast as the 
suckers, which are to be left for fruiting in the rows, attain the 
height of four feet, clip off their tops. This causes them to 
throw out side shoots, and upon these the best fruit is borne. 
They also intertwine together, forming a sort of hedge, and 
thus are able to stand without stakes. If well-pruned and 
headed back, all the varieties, except the Early Wilson, can 
stand without support. This variety has much of the slender 
trailing habit of the running blackberry, and needs staking. 
But cutting it back will greatly increase its stockiness. It may 
be well perhaps to stake all varieties the second year, for until 
the plants become established, the young canes are weak and 
slender. The regular pruning and cutting out of the old wood 
can be left till after the buds swell in spring, making one labor 
of it. At this time it can be seen which parts are alive, and which 
have been killed by the frost ; shorten in the side shoots one-half 
or two-thirds, and more and better fruit will be obtained. When 
the bushes are left to grow very large and bear all the fruit that 



89 

forms upon them, the berries do not mature, especially if it is 
dry, but grow hard and seedy. The pruning in spring can best 
be performed by a strong pair of shears upon two long rods which 
enables one to work at a respectful distance. 

The liability to be winter killed is more difficult to contend 
with, and in our latitude the Early Wilson is almost always de- 
stroyed, if not protected. It can generally be preserved by pin- 
ning it close to the ground by a shovel or two of earth, or by 
keeping it down by laying bean poles upon them, and covering 
with tomato vines or any coarse litter. I find that protecting 
with earth is the simplest and surest way, and at the north I 
should think it would pay well, for if this variety survives, it 
yields an early and enormous crop. 

The other kinds are such stiff stocky growers that they can- 
not be bent over and covered, and some winters seriously injure 
those that are called hardy. Moreover varieties that are hardy 
upon New Jersey sand will not endure winters farther north. If 
w^e can get a blackberry that is as good as the Early Wilson or 
Kittatinny and perfectly hardy in the high latitudes, it will be 
a great acquisition. There are several new varieties which are 
claimed to endure all temperatures, but the same was asserted 
once of the kinds which we sometimes find shriveled and dead in 
spring. No degree of frost ever affects the roots, but only the 
bearing canes. The best precaution in the case of the stocky 
growing kinds is to head back the bushes in summer to the 
height of three or four feet, thus causing them to throw out side- 
shoots low down near the ground so that the snow protects them. 
When we are favored with mild winters there is seldom any loss. 
Only rarely do my vines suffer severe injury. Even to the far 
north a few Kittatinny bushes can be protected by leaning ever- 
green bran(;hes upon them or covering with leaves or any coarse 
material. They are so nearly hardy that very little protection 
answers. But the canes of every variety that I have seen, if 
allowed to grow thick and liigh upon rank moist soil will almost 
invariably suffer so much with the frost as to be unprofitable. 



70 



Varieties. 

For home use I would recommend as first in value the 

Kittatinny — A very Uirge and delicious kind that continues 
long in bearing. It is a tremendously strong grower, and should 
be kept well in check by destroying the suckers and heading 
bnck in summer. It is also first class for market where Lite 
blackberries bring good prices. Its flavor when fully ripe is 
most excellent. 

Wilson's Early. — Quite distinct in its growth and character 
from the above, for it has, especially when young, something 
of the trailing habit of the running blackberry. For this reason 
we think it can be grown quite far to the north, for although it 
is very tender, and generally killed by frost in this latitude, it 
can, from its slender and willowy nature, be bent down in fall and 
covered with earth. In any region where very large and earl}^ 
blackberries bring good prices it will pay to do this, I cover 
mine completely in November either with earth or anything that 
will keep the canes down close to the ground. It is the best 
market berry, but unless one is willing to give it winter protec- 
tion it Avill not pay to raise it in this latitude. The fruit is very 
large, bbick, oblong, quite firm but not of so rich and good a 
flavor as the Kittatinny, 

Dorchester. — A very good variety, but not quite so produc- 
tive as either of the above. The canes are vigorous and quite 
hardy. The fruit ripens early and is large, sweet and very good. 
It is regarded as an excellent market variety. 

Snyder. — Said to be perfectly hardy and very productive. 
Fruit miMlinm in size and of o;ood flavor, 

Lawton, or New Eochelle.— This old and well-known variety 
is now quite superceded by better kinds. The canes are very 



71 

tender and are so strong and stocky that they cannot be laid 
down and covered. The fruit is not ripe when it is black, and 
when fully ripe is very soft. But it is large and of very good 
flavor, and the bushes continue long in bearing. 

There are other new varieties concerning which great things 
are asserted. I hope fuller experience will enable me to report 
favorably upon them. 



PlCKlXd AND MAlllvETlMi Flll'lTS. 



Packing Plants, Profits of Small Fruit Culture. 



HE question often arises, after all, do small fruits pay ? 
They pay some people well, and unless location, soil, or 
climate are hopelessly against you, the degree of profit will 



1 



^5 depend upon your skill, judgment and industry. The 
raising of small fruits is like other callings in which some are get- 
ting rich, more earning a fair livelihood, and not a few failing. I 
do not seek to mislead any one by rose-colored pictures. It is a 
business in which there is an abundance of sharp, keen competi- 
tion, and ignorance, poor judgment, and shiftless, idle ways will 
be as fatal as in the work-shop, store, or office. 

Innumerable failures result from inexperience. I will give 
one extreme example which may serve to illustrate the sanguine 
menial condition of many who read of large returns in fruit cul- 
ture. A young man, who had inherited a few hundred dollars, 
wrote me that he could hire a piece of land for a certain amount, 
and wished to invest the balance — every cent — with me, for 
})lants, thus leaving himself no capital to continue operations, but 
expecting that a, speedy crop would lift him at once into a pros- 
perous career. I wrote that under the circumstances I could not 
supply him — that it would be about the same as robbery to do so, 
and advised him to spend several years with a practical and suc- 
cessful fruit-grower and learn the business. 

Most people enter upon this calling in the form of a wedge, 
but only too many commence at the blunt end, investing largely 
at once in everything, and therefore soon taper down to nothing. 



7?> 

The wise begin at the point of the Avedge and develop their busi- 
ness naturally, healthfully, learning by experience and careful 
observation, how to grow fruits profibibly and which kinds pay 
them best. There onght also to be considerable capital to start 
with, and an absence of the crushing burden of interest money. 
No fruits yield any returns before the second or third years ; 
and there are often unfavorable seasons and glutted markets. 
Nature's prizes are won by patient, persistent industry and not 
by Wall street sleight of hand. 

Location is ver}'- important. A fancy store, however well- 
furnished, w^ould be a ruinous investment at a country cross-road. 
The fruit farm must be situated where there is quick and cheap 
access to good markets. 

And such markets may be near, and good cultivation produce 
an abundance of fruit, and still much loss arise from not properly 
placing the fruit before purchasers and consumers. This leads 
to the questions, which are the best baskets, packages an'd meth- 
ods of shipping. We wdll commence first with : 

Strawberries. — After spending considerable time in the New 
York markets, 1 found f;ir more difference of opinion concerning 
packages than 1 expected. The verdict of the Broadway fancy 
trade is in favor of the Beecher baskets, quarts and pints, and 
for choice raspberries, half pints. W. and C. Smith, the well- 
known dealers at 189 Broadway, prefer crates containing 32 
Beecher quarts or 45 pints. Wm. N. Ward, 13 Broad st., finds 
that Beecher quarts filled with large showy fruit, take the best. 
J. W. Salter, ju'oprietor of the Central market, cor. 19th st. and 
Broadway, prefers the Beecher baskets, but says that quality and 
price of the fruit make far more difforenco with the purchaser 
than the package. Olmstead and Sheffield, 1266 Broadway, give 
their verdict in favor of Beecher pints, well filled, as they admit 
of such good ventilation, and there is not enough fruit together 
to be crushed by its own weight. They also prefer the Beecher 
quarts to the square baskets, and the Beecher li;dl-pints for 
ras]3berries. At the same time they would much rather have 



handsome fruit in the square, than ordinaiy berries in the round 
baskets. As fanc}' kinds, the Jucunda, Triomphe, Pres't. Wilder 
and Monarch, are most in favor with the above named parties. 
The following cuts represent them to the eye: 

VENEER BASKETS. 




QtJAET. 



Pint. 



J^Pbtt. 




Quart. 



PlxNT, 



The points in favor of the Beecher basket, are that they hold 
a full quart, that tlieir construction gives the fruit plenty of ven- 
tilation, and that large, handsome fruit shows better in a round 
basket. The adverse points are that their shape causes them to 
take up more room in the crate than square baskets, and there- 
fore to require larger packages for the same quantity, and that 
they do not fit in the crates tightly, the rough handling they 
often receive jarring the fruit out of the baskets and causing them 
to appear partially filled and unattractive. 

The veneer quarts of the above style are quoted at $35 ; 
pints at $30; and half-pints at $26 per 1000. Star quarts at 
$28 ; and pints at $25 per 1000. Thirty-two quart crates of 
each kind at $1.55 ; forty -five pint crates at $1.40. The above 
gives an idea of the prices, and for further information the reader 
can address the Beecher Basket Co., Westville, Conn. 

But when we come to the large, open market and among the 
commission houses where after all our fruit must be sold, we find 
02)inion almost equally divided between the round, or Beecher 
baskets, and the square American, or Delaware quarts. It is 
said in behalf of the square quarts that they can be bought at 
about half the price of the Beecher baskets, that the}^ fit so snugly 
and tightly in the crates that it is almost impossible for rougli 
handling to spill the berries, and spoil the looks of the baskets 
when the crates are opened, and that packages containing the 
same amount are smaller and more easily handled. For shipping- 
long distances, the square, closely-fitting baskets seemed quite 



75 

decidedly preferred to any other, aUhougli it was admitted that 
the- round baskets would carry the fruit better on account of 
superior ventilation if the crates were only handled properly; 
which, unfortunately, is seldom the case for carmen, freight-hands 
and boatmen belong to the same genus as " baggage smashers." 
Moreover it is said that the square or American baskets are 
more profitable to the grower than the Beecher quarts because 
they do not hold quite so much, while the round hold a full quart, 
and if heaped, a little more ; but, it is complained, will bring no 
better prices than the square quarts. It is said that, in many in- 
stances, those who buy Beecher baskets empty them into Ameri- 
can quarts, thus making the same quantity of fruit bring more 
money. This feature should be changed, and a quart basket 
should hold a quart. But those who complain of scant measure 
should be willing to pay more for the Beecher baskets. The 
only advantage however, that I could learn they had, was that, 
in a " glut," the Beecher quarts would sell first, the fruit in each 
case being equally good. There is no deception as the capacity 
of each basket is well understood. Still it would be far better to 
have each package just what it purports to be. It is said that 
the square Delaware quarts, if well filled and rounded up, as all 
baskets should be to sell well, hold a. full quart. But the com- 
pact, snug fitting, and good carrying qualities of the square 
baskets, together with their cheapness, will always make them 
favorites with very many. I find that the large growers in New 
Jersey and to the southward use them very generally, and that 
the retail dealers on Sixth Avenue like them as well, if not better, 
than any other. Delaware baskets, both pints and quarts, can be 
bought at prices varying from $15 to $20 per 1000 with a dis- 
count upon large orders. 

It should be said, however, that square 2nnts and thirds are 
not regarded with much favor in market. The round Whitney 
veneer cup, holding a third of a (^uart, is very largely used both 
for strawberries and raspberries. The package has the advan- 
tage of cheapness, simplicit}^ and strength, but the lack of venti- 
lation will prevent it from coming into general use. Willits & 



76 

Co, 103 Murray st., New York, who have had ninch experience, 
recommend Delaware quarts and Beecher pints for strawberries 
and Beecher half pints for raspberries. I am so w^ell satisfied 
that their views are correct that I shall in the main follow their 
advice. The advertisements of many trustworthy manufacturers 
of baskets and crates can be found in the agricultural papers. I 
have tried to give the reader the pros and cons concerning the two 
styles most in favor, leaving to him the choice. In view of my 
nearness to market, and the fact that I shall chiefly grow the fancy 
varieties, I shall invest largely in Beecher pints. For Wilson 
strawberries I would recommend as a good package, the Delaware 
32 quart crate, and for large berries, the 24 quart crate. 

rickingi — Having procured the baskets which suit us best, 
the next thing is to fill them properly, and get them into market 
looking fresh and attractive. It is just at this point that very 
many wrong themselves or permit themselves to be wronged. 
The time is past when all strawberries will sell as such at so 
much per quart. Appearance often doubles the price, or makes 
it difficult to sell the fruit at all. Soiled, muddy berries, even 
though large, will bring but wretched prices, therefore the import- 
ance of mulching. The fruit may be in beautiful condition upon 
the vines and yet careless picking spoil it. The work is often 
performed by children, or by those who have had no experience, 
or from inherent shiftlessness, do everything in the w^orst possible 
way. . I have seen beautiful berries that in their brief transit 
through grimy hands into the baskets, lost half their value. 
Many pickers will lay hold of the soft berry itself and pinch it 
iis they pull it olf. Then instead of dropping it into the basket, 
will hold it in their hand as they pick others, and as their hand 
grows fuller they will squeeze them tighter, and when at last 
the half-crushed handful is dropped into the basket the berries 
are almost ruined for market pur})Oses. Not for $10 per day 
would I permit such a person to pick for me, f )i' he not only 
takes fifty per cent from the price of the fruit, but gives my 
brand a bad reputation. If possible the grower should carefully 



77 

select his pickers and have them subscribe to a few plain rules 
like the following. 

1. The berries must be picked with the thumb and fore finger 
nails and not held in the hand but dropped into the baskets at 
once. 

2. No green, decayed or muddy berries will be received. 

3. There must be no getting down upon all fours in the 
beds, thus crushing both green and ripe fruit. 

4. There must be no "topping off" with large berries, and the 
fruit must be equally good all through the basket. 

In the early pickings of Wilsons when many of the berries 
are of good size, and of all the large, choice kinds, it is best to 
make two grades, putting the large and small by themselves, 
and keeping varieties separate. A small frame with short legs 
at each corner and a handle is a convenient appliance to hold six 
or more baskets while picking. Give to each picker two sets of 
baskets, one for the small, and one for the large berries, and pay 
equally for both so that there may be no motive to thwart your 
purpose ; two cents per quart is the usual price. Have two styles 
of tickets, red and blue, for instance, the red having a higher 
value and given to those who bring the berries to the place of pack- 
ing in good order, according to rule ; let the baskets not picked 
in conformity to the rules be receipted for with the blue tickets. 
Receiving man}' of the latter soon becomes a kind of disgrace, and 
thus you appeal to the principle of self-respect as well as self- 
interest. Get rid of those who persist in careless picking as soon 
as possible. Insist that the baskets be full and rounded up, and 
the fruit equal in quality down to the bottom. As far as possible 
let the hulls be down, out of sight, and only the fruit showing. 
If you have berries that are extra fine it will pay you to pick 
and pack them yourself, or have some one do it that can be 
depended upon. Do not pick the fruit, if you can help it, when it 
is wet with dew or rain ; still there are times when this must be 
done to save it. Never let the baskets or crates stand lon»>- 
in the sun and wind, as the berries so treated soon become dull 



78 

and faded. As soon as a crate is filled put it under cover in a 
cool place till shipped to market. Insist upou careful, gentle 
handling as far as possible. I wish we could unite in prosecuting 
parties who spoil our fruit by tossing the crates about. That 
commission men are but human is a fact that will scarcely be 
disputed, and it will, perhaps, be best to try several and deal 
with those who do the best for you. 

rrontS. — No certain information can be given upon this sub- 
ject. They will depend upon the cost of land, manure, labor, the 
number of bushels raised per acre, prices, etc. Wm. Parry says 
that strawberries will pay him at six cents per quart, but I do not 
think they would pay me at that price. I should think that a 
large crop at ten cents would always be remunerative. A moder- 
ate crop of fine berries will often pay better than a large crop of 
small soft fruit. The number of berries that can be raised upon an 
acre no one can state. The amounts of fruit that are produced, 
differ greatly with location, soil, culture and variety. Mr. Fuller 
speaks of 300 bushels per acre. Mr. Parry says that he has raised 
210 bushels, but considers one-third of that number a fair crop; 
while in the light sandy soil of Delaware 47 bushels are regarded 
as the average. In the fruit-irrowing region of Ulster Co. 140 
bushels are considered a good crop, and 180 bushels a large yield. 
I hare raised 95 bushels on two-thirds of an acre. As we have 
intimated before, the quantity raised does not depend so much 
upon the number of square feet as upon the variety, soil, and 
cultivation. There have been instances where an acre of straw- 
berries has yielded a clear profit of $1,000, but one third that 
amount would be nearer the general average. I kept an account 
with an acre one favorable season, and my gross sales in fruit and 
plants was $1,400, about $800 of which was profit. Wm. 
Parry, of Cinnaminson, N. J., thus records his experience. "■ For 
ten years past our whole ci'ops have averaged about 2,500 quarts 
per acre, and averaged 12 cents per quart in market, giving the 
foUowino; results : 



79 

Commission, 10 per cent 130.00 

Picking, at 2 cents 50.00 

Interest on land 10.00 

Manure 25.00 

Use of baskets 10. 00 

Cultivation, &c 30.00 

Xet profits 145. 00 

G-i'oss proceeds, 2,500 quarts, at 12 cents 1300.00 

Shipping PlfintSi — if they are expressed, pack them in strong 
shallow boxes, tied loosely in bundles of fifty, with the roots 
down and the tops up and exposed to the air. In cool weather, 
a la3'er of damp moss over the bottom of the box, and between 
each row of bundles, will preserve them. Then slats are nailed 
closely across the top of the box. If the plants are sent in hot, 
dry weather, it is best to dip each one in a mud paste, that will 
coat the roots, and place them very loosely in the box to prevent 
heating; and then use moss, chaff, or the fine rakings of the lawn, 
as before. Or in cool weather they may be packed in barrels, 
first boring or cutting many holes in the sides for air. Place a 
layer of moss, then a layer of jdants in a circle, with the tops out 
toward the sides, continue these layers till the barrel is full. Thus 
a round hole down through the centre to the bottom of the barrel 
is left for circulation with an opening in the cover or head over 
this breathing place. When the plants are sent by mail, w^rap 
the roots in (hmi]), (not wet, dripping) moss, then encase them 
in oiled paper, with a neat wra])per of brown paper over this. 
Leave a little of the toj) exposed for air, and to show what, the 
package contains, and tie on a card of direction. If the govern- 
ment exists for ti:e benefit of the people and not the people for the 
sake of the government, then Congress did the country a great 
injury in doubling the postage on plants, seeds, etc. In our wide 
and sparsely settled land, multitudes are too distant from exjtress 
offices to find them of any service. 

The same general principles that have been stated above apply 
to all the other small fruits. 

Raspberries— should be handled with .-ven greater care th;in 



80 

strawberries, as they are softer and more perishable. They should 
never be put into anything larger than a pint basket, while thirds 
of a quart and half-pints are much better. The Beecher half-pint 
seems to be eominginto i;n'or, while the Whitney thirds are chietly 
used upon the Hudson river. There is a wide shallow basket 
made in Rochester, that some growers think highly of. With 
most varieties of raspberries, if an}^ considerable number are placed 
together they soon become a soft, mouldy mass. The ideal rasp- 
berry basket, therefore, is small, open, and shallow ; and the crates 
should permit free circulation. Pick the fruit when dry, and as 
soon as it is ripe, as over-ripe berries decay quickly. Keep varie- 
ties by themselves. Mr. Parry says that raspberries will pay at 
ten cents per quart, but I do not think that any money can be 
made from them at less than twelve. They usually sell at much 
higher figures. Blackcaps, of late years, have scarcely brought 
paying prices in New York market. The following statement 
shows what a difference variety and therefore quality makes in 
the same market. " On the 7th day of July, 1871, raspberries 
were sold at wholesale, in Philadelphia, as follows, viz. : 

Black Cap 5 cents })er quart. 

Philadelphia 8 do. 

Pearl 16 do. 

Susqueco, or Braudywiiie 30 do. 

Horn.8t GO do. 

Blackberries sell well in both quart and pint baskets, but if 
one is sending a long distance, pints will carry the fruit in better 
condition. 

The best method of shipping currants is to have tills, or shal- 
low boxes, two or four in number, fitting in one's berry crates, 
which can thus be made to serve a double purpose. Mark on 
these tills the net weight of the fruit. For large, cherry currants, 
quart and verbena baskets are often used. Many like a long 
market basket holding about 25 pounds, while those who raise 
grapes often make the same shallow boxes answer for both. 

Gooseberries are shipped in all kinds of packages, from bar- 



81 

rels to quart boxes. I prefer ;i crate with tills for both goose- 
berries and currants. These two fruits, especially the latter, are 
becoming increasingly profitable every year. 

In summing up it may be briefly stated that with all fruits, 
and in all the large markets, beauty, size, and good keeping 
qualities are the points which are chiefly considered. Very few 
know much about the names of varieties, but eagerly purchase 
that which appears the most attractive. The grower who c;in 
make his crates of berries when opened look better than an\' 
others near, will always receive good prices. If he tops off 
poor fruit with large berries, he wnll soon scarcely find a 
market at all. If he always fills his baskets ivell and honed///, 
and gives good weight, taking pains to make his packages appear 
attractive, his fruit will soon be in much demand and spoken 
for in advance. 



LAST WORDS. ■' 



In bowing' ln3^self out from this brief interview with the reader, 
T will merely add that I have tried to make my preceding words 
simple and to the point — helpful. I lay no claim whatever to 
scientific and exhaustive thoroughness. It is rather as if I had 
sat down and chatted with the reader for an hour, telling him 
what little I knew, and answering his supposed questions. If he 
had been actually present he would have asked scores that I 
could not have answered. But for practical purposes I have 
honesth' tried to be plain, accurate, and suggestive, so that even 
the novice could understand what he must do to succeed with 
the most delicious and wholesome fruits of the year. In just 
distrust of my own judgment and knowledge, I have read all the 
preceding pages, except those treating of markets, etc., to Charles 
Downing, who is rightfully considered one of the very chief 
authorities upon these subjects. But where I am in fault the 
errors are my own. 

It is one of the hopes of the future that I may be able to 
observe carefully the many new varieties of fruit that are claim- 
ing attention, and by reporting as accurately as possible upon 
them annually, enable others to judge of their value. I also 
hope to give from time to time the results of experiments, and 
my own, and the experience of others in the various methods of 
culture. But whether such expectations will ever be fulfilled is 
a question that time onl}^ can answer. 

If through the influence of this manual more ripe and deli- 
cious fruits appear upon your daily board, you wdll find that >ou 
have followed the advice of a friend. 



OTHER WORKS HY E. V. ROE. 



PLAY AND PROFIT IN MY GARDEN. 



The author tells in this volume the story of a successful experience in gardening. 

From 3I4 acres $2,000 worth of fruit and vegetables were sold during the year of 
1871, and in addition there was a most abundant home supply. 

The aim of the book is to relate, in light and simple style, how this was done by a 
professional man gardening for recreation, and averaging not much over an hour a 
day of his own time to his garden. 

While the writer seeks to give a clear record of experience and the most practicftl 
advice, he also endeavors to shun as far as possible a dry, didactic form of writing. 

TWO THOUSAND SEVEN HUNDRED DOLLARS' worth of fruit and vege- 
tables were sold from this garden, increased to three acres, under the same general 
management, in 1874. 



OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 

" The author takes us to his garden on the rocky hill-sides in the vicinity of West" 
Point, and shows us how out of it, after four years' experience, he evoked a profit of 
$1,000, and this while carrying on pastoral and literary labors * * * It is very rare 
that so much literary taste and skill are mated to so much agricultural experience 
and practical good sense." — Harper's Magmine. 

" This book is as poetical as it is practical. Still he is no dreamer. He goes into^ 
every essential detail with as much minuteness and precision as if he were writing a 
manual for the practical farmer. Indeed few works professedly devoted to agriculture 
give more sound and valuable information on the secret of winning golden harvests 
from the soil than thiR brief idyllic sketch." — N. Y. Tribune. 

"A very charming book, not only by reason of its pleasant style, but for its (juict, 
refined humor and fund of really useful information on the sul)jt'ct of gardening."--T- 
Bostoii Gazette. 

"It deserves to stand side by side with 'My Summer in a (iarden." " — C/irintian 
Register. 

" A fresh, lively work." — N'. Y. Observer. 

"One reads without weariness and learns mucli of practical value." — Chicago 
Evening Journal. 

'■• Full of information. Explains just what the reader wishes to know. We most 
heartily commend it." — Procidence Evening Press. 

" A chatty, sensible, profitable book." — Cleveland Herald. 

" The book gives much valuable information, and gives it in tlic plcasantest man- 
ner imaginable." — Detroit Daily Union. 



Mailed on receipt of price, $1.50. 



FOUR POPULAR STORIES. 



BARRIERS BURNED AWAY. 

20th T/ioitsaiKl. I'riir, $1.75. 

OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 

'• When so much trashy and soul oiirrvatiiiL' litrraturr is issiu'd under the head of relisiious novels, 
it is refreshing to sec oncriike the Rev. Mr. IJoe's Barriers Burned Away, written with an earnest pur- 
pose. Sensational, and yet to good eftects,— inartistic as might be looked for in the young author's 
first attempt, and yet unhackneyed, lively, and UM^cma.X'ing.'''— Springfield Eeimblican. 

"The characters are delineated with truthfulness and consistency. In their conception the author 
shows equal originality and boldness. Even Old Bill Cronk. the rough, hard-swearing, hard-drinking, 
big-flsted, big-hearted Western drover, could not be spared from the scene.'' — Neiv York Tribune. 

'• We congratulate >lr. Roe upon his story of the dav." — Xtii: York Observer. 

WHAT CAN SHE DO? 

14tJi T/iOii.stiii(1. rrirr, .$1.7.-,. 

" The moral purpose of this book is amply worthy of the author's zeal. It is that young women 
should be educated in such a way that if left without money they shall be able to support lln'insclves. 
Mr. Roe is especially severe upon our American vice of 'pride of occupation.' " — JY. Y. Ert.utirj Pod. 

■'We consider that parents are indebted to the author for the most practical story of the day." — 
PMladelp/iia Age. 

•' Ills works have an honest, healthy tone, and a purpose. His narrative is full of interest— in the 
present case unusually so. We must not forget in particular to allude to his always charming bits of 
country life ; his gardening at once poetic and profitable."— iV^. Y. Evening Express. 

•• The narrative is fascinating." — Chicago Advance. 

" An exceedingly well-written story."— Chyrcfiman. 

OPENING OF A CHESTNUT BURR. 

17t/i Thoiisaud. I'rice, $1.75. 

" In The Opening of a Chestnut Burr. Air. Roe has made a marked advance upon his two previous 
stories. He has already exhibited a renuirkable power of description, which in this volume he uses 
with good efl'ect in the scenes of fire and shipwreck. It is thoroughly religious, thoroughly Christian 
both fn tone and teaching." — Harper's Magazine. 

" The character of the selfish, morbid, cynical hero, and his gradual transformation under the influ- 
ence of the sweet and high-spirited heroine, are portrayed with a masculine firmness, wliich is near 
akin to power, and some of the conversations are animated and admirable."— ^■l?to/!<?'c Monthbi. 

" The most able story that we have had from the pen of Mr. Roe. It is also the best of the so-called 
religious novels published of late." — The Christian Union. 

"■• There are many stirring and dramatic scenes in the story, while its quieter phases are not wanting 
in grace and sweetness."— i^oftow Trateller. 

•' Mr. Roe has laid out his greatest power in depicting the character of the heroine, who is a model 
of saintly purpose and ardent piety without losing the peculiar charms of female loveliness. He is 
strong in his delineation of character. All his personages have a clear, sharp-cut individimlity. and 
make a fresh and deep impression on the reader." — New York Tribune. 

FROM JEST TO EARNEST. 

17th Thousaml. I'rice, $1.75. 

'• His plots are never commonplace. The change in Lottie's character is well delineated, and with a 
naturalness and artistic skill which we do not ofteii find in the so-called religious novels."— i/ar^j. Mag. 

" It is surprising to find how genuinely interesting his stories always are. There is nothing of the 
vulgarly sensational about them.'"— EcUctic Magasine. 

■'Mr. Roe's books are religious novels in perhaps the best sense of t\\etexvi\.''—Zion''s Herald, Boston. 

"A simple, pure story, such as Mr. Roe has always written, is one of the most potent vehicles of 
moral and religious training that can be employed." — Buffalo Daily Cornier. 

•'Mr. Roe's works have had a fine, noble purpose, each and all. The present story is an excellent 
one— of high tone and deep religious strength."— -Boston Evening Traveller. 

■ It is a thoroughly good story because pervaded by an infiuence thoroughly pure." — Atn. Rural Home. 

•• The hero is simple, strong, and manly: much such a man as Mr. Lincoln must have been had he 
turned his attention to theology instead of "politics."— A'eiC York World. 

"A bright, vivacious story, full of wit and even froVic."— Portland Transcript. 

"He vindicates his right to use the talent which God has given him for the instruction and interest 
of the thousands who read his works."— iVew York Evangelist. 



SEVI^NTY-TWO THOVS.LXI) of the fii'<- book.s named above hai'e been sold in thi.s 
r(,niitvij in U:ss than three and a half j/ear.s. The;/ hare also all been 2>tiblished both 
in booh and serial form in Enfjland. 

Any or all of the above named bookn irill he mailed on the receipt ofprire. 
Address, E. P. ROE. 

COI{NW.\LI,-ON-THE-HUDSON, NeW YORK. 



JjffR^RY OF CONGRESS 

■i 




s 



(For full description and history «ee the chapter within upon the Gooseberry.) 

STRAWBERRY AND RASPBERRY PLANTS 

And Other Small Fruits in Large or Small Quantities for Sale in their Season. 

Circular and Priea List lailed Free on Application. 

If you have no land, do the best you can in the markets. If you have 
but a few square feet, I commend to you the words of the Editor of the 
American Agriculturist: "The unfortunate people who buy their fruit do not 
know what a strawberry is." Address, 

E. P. POE, 

€©!!! WiliL-0NI-TMl-TO©S0M , 



